Rob,
Maybe these numbers will help you out:
Dupont (the original makers of the nitrocellulose lacquers on our old
trucks) (800) 338-7668. They have a whole department for helping, just
follow the
recorded instructions to get to a live person.
Hibernia, Steve (973) 627-1882. Nice guy.
Art Davidson (800) 653-2447. Art sent me an original chip for $17.50.
Michael Lubitz
1946 Chevy 3/4 ton, stock
1948 Chevrolet 3100, hot rod
Austin, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Squatch56" <Squatch56@email.msn.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:17 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] Paint Number
> I am looking for a modern paint number for the 58 Chevy Truck color Tartan
> Turquoise. Does any one out there have any idea what it may be??
> Thanks
> Rob Butler
> Milwaukie, OR
> 56 Cameo
> 56 Chevy Panel
> 77 GMC Jimmy 4x4
> 78 Chevy Shortwide
> 48 GM 'Trailabout' <project>
>
> SASQUATCH ARTWORKS
> Custom Automotive Cartoons
> http://www.connieosborne.com/sasquatch/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "oletrucks-digest" <owner-0@autox.team.net>
> To: <oletrucks-digest@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:15 AM
> Subject: oletrucks-digest V2 #1247
>
>
> >
> > oletrucks-digest Thursday, March 8 2001 Volume 02 : Number
> 1247
> >
> >
> >
> > [oletrucks] Kool April Nites Car Show ["joe"
> <chevy1@jps.net>]
> > [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet [jimmy
> <doodle@flintemc.net>]
> > [oletrucks] texas swap meet [vwbus@ckoon.org
(craig
> k)]
> > Re: [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet ["Connie Dodd"
> <cwdodd1@home.com>]
> > Re: [oletrucks] where gas filler neck [Stu
> <sbcltd@netcomuk.co.uk>]
> > [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show? [Dave
> <DaveR@neteze.com>]
> > RE: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show? ["Willard, Andrew"
> <andrew.willard@expe]
> > RE: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show? ["Willard, Andrew"
> <andrew.willard@expe]
> > [oletrucks] TF re-wire
> [gagejohn@ix.netcom.com]
> > [oletrucks] Fw: 1952 Pick-up Trucks! ["Rob J."
> <rjjmsj@earthlink.net>]
> > [oletrucks] For Sale: 1949 Chevy 3600 ["Carl Jensen"
> <CarlJ@jsanet.com>]
> > Re: [oletrucks] Need help on 58 Suburban I.D. tag ["joe"
> <chevy1@jps.net]
> > [oletrucks] TF rewiring--suggestions [J Forbes
> <jforbes@primenet.com>]
> > Re: [oletrucks] TF rewiring--suggestions ["Brian _"
> <pkupman57@hotmail.co]
> > [oletrucks] Welding Progress Report ["Deve Krehbiel"
> <dkrehbiel@kscable.c]
> > Re: [oletrucks] Welding Progress Report [Michael Mendonca
> <mm@service-qua]
> > [oletrucks] brake drum removal [john j tonyes
> <flfox1@juno.com>]
> > [oletrucks] Redoing seats
> [MarkNoakes@aol.com]
> > [oletrucks] color of gauges ["Ronald I. Givens"
> <givens@hal-pc.org>]
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 20:12:01 -0800
> > From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Kool April Nites Car Show
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone has attended or was planning on attending the
> Kool
> > April Nites Car show in Redding Ca this year. I've been told people
come
> > down from Oregon, Washington, Canada, Idaho, etc., so their should be
some
> > really nice vehicles in attendance.
> >
> > I've heard about this show for 3 years now and last year a friend of my
> > brothers showed me over 100+ photos of the event that finally made me
want
> > to see it for myself. Some people say this event is bigger and better
> than
> > Reno Nevada's Hot August Nights.
> >
> > I'll be driving up my Chopped 1950 1/2 ton with my 15 year old nephew
"my
> > favorite co-pilot and wrench fetcher" and brother for company.
> >
> > Joe
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 23:44:32 -0500
> > From: jimmy <doodle@flintemc.net>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet
> >
> > I wanted to invite you guys to come to our First Annual Car Show and
> > Swap meet on April 14, 2001 at the SilverDollar Raceway in Reynolds
> > Georgia.Contact me off list for further information.
> > Jimmy
> > doodle@flintemc.net
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 23:01:06 -0600
> > From: vwbus@ckoon.org (craig k)
> > Subject: [oletrucks] texas swap meet
> >
> > Brady, Texas is having a car show/swap meet the first weekend in
April...
> > don't know anything else about it. Brady is about 3 hours west of
Austin.
> >
> > craig
> > caretaker of
> > stephanie's 50 3104 216 5-window deluxe
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 03:05:51 -0500
> > From: "Connie Dodd" <cwdodd1@home.com>
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet
> >
> > Where is Reynolds located ?
> >
> > C W Dodd
> > 56-3200
> > Greenville SC
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: jimmy
> > To: oletrucks
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 11:44 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Carshow and swapmeet
> >
> >
> > I wanted to invite you guys to come to our First Annual Car Show and
> > Swap meet on April 14, 2001 at the SilverDollar Raceway in Reynolds
> > Georgia.Contact me off list for further information.
> > Jimmy
> > doodle@flintemc.net
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 15:06:13 -0000
> > From: Stu <sbcltd@netcomuk.co.uk>
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] where gas filler neck
> >
> > Sam,
> >
> > Sorry. I can't help much 'cause the tank was already there when I bought
> the
> > truck. From what Mike was saying the external tanks are from a pre '49
> > though.
> >
> > Maybe someone else can help?
> >
> > Stu..
> > - ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Sam Barrette" <Sam.Barrette@mail.oasd.k12.wi.us>
> > To: <sbcltd@netcomuk.co.uk>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 2:57 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] where gas filler neck
> >
> >
> > > Stu
> > >
> > > I just got registered and came in on the tail end of the gas tank
> > > disscussion. I've just purchased a 50 AD and the tank is one of the
> > > projects I'd like to do.
> > > Any advice you can give me on what tank works well, where to get it
etc
> > > and the installation would be greatly apreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks, Sam
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 07:46:39 -0800
> > From: Dave <DaveR@neteze.com>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
> >
> > Does anyone know when the Paso Robles show is this year? Is anyone
going?
> > BTW, I'm planning to be at Kool April Nights with Old Blue this year
too.
> > First time for this show for me but I hear it's really cool.
> >
> > Dave Riffel
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:06:19 -0800
> > From: "Willard, Andrew" <andrew.willard@experian.com>
> > Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
> >
> > I "think" Paso Robles is March 17th & 18th, but can't find to verify
right
> > now. I'll try to verify and let you know.
> >
> > Andy Willard
> >
> > 1989 s-10 driver
> > 1953 panel project
> >
> > - -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave [mailto:DaveR@neteze.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:47 AM
> > To: oletrucks
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know when the Paso Robles show is this year? Is anyone
going?
> > BTW, I'm planning to be at Kool April Nights with Old Blue this year
too.
> > First time for this show for me but I hear it's really cool.
> >
> > Dave Riffel
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 09:22:10 -0800
> > From: "Willard, Andrew" <andrew.willard@experian.com>
> > Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
> >
> > Found it! On the City of Paso Robles community calendar.
> >
> > Mar. 16-18 Chevy/GMC Truckin' Nationals & Automotive Swap
Meet
> > Mid-State Fairgrounds
> > For more information call:
> > 805-686-2007
> >
> >
> > Andy Willard
> > Tustin, CA
> >
> > 1989 s-10 driver
> > 1953 panel project
> >
> >
> > - -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave [mailto:DaveR@neteze.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:47 AM
> > To: oletrucks
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Paso Robles Show?
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know when the Paso Robles show is this year? Is anyone
going?
> > BTW, I'm planning to be at Kool April Nights with Old Blue this year
too.
> > First time for this show for me but I hear it's really cool.
> >
> > Dave Riffel
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 13:30:05 -0500
> > From: gagejohn@ix.netcom.com
> > Subject: [oletrucks] TF re-wire
> >
> > I'm thinking about re-wiring my 59 TF and had a couple of questions:
> >
> > Will these aftermarket kits such as Ron Francis, Painless etc have
> provisions for using the stock column and turnsignals etc...or will I need
> to splice them in myself? What I meen is, will they have plugs for older
GM
> non-keyed columns?
> >
> > I'm trying to decide wether to buy a kit for Gm or non-gm column.
> >
> > Have any of you guys used this type of kit on a fairly stock truck?
> >
> > Thanks, John Schulz
> >
> > Any suggestions, ideas, concerns?
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:16:33 -0800
> > From: "Rob J." <rjjmsj@earthlink.net>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Fw: 1952 Pick-up Trucks!
> >
> > I am posting this for the individual below. 812 area code shows as
being
> in
> > Indiana. Do not send anything to me, communicate directly to Ken St.
> Clair
> > or Art Douglas.
> >
> > Rob
> > - ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Douglas, Art" <Art.Douglas@ArvinMeritor.com>
> > To: <rjjmsj@earthlink.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 8:59 AM
> > Subject: 1952 Pick-up Trucks!
> >
> >
> > > Dear Sir,
> > > I saw your ad and wanted to tell you about my friend that has (2) 1952
> > > Chevrolet 1/2 ton pick-up trucks. Both trucks are all original, and
one
> > > truck is a five window cab.
> > > Neither trucks runs, but he would like to sell both trucks together.
If
> > > interested, call Ken St. Clair, at 1-812-379-4205.
> > >
> > >
> > > Art Douglas
> > > Product Designer
> > > Ford Business Group
> > > ArvinMeritor Inc.
> > > Art.Douglas@ArvinMeritor
> > > 812-341-2272
> > > Pager: 812-348-0369
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 11:22:50 -0800
> > From: "Carl Jensen" <CarlJ@jsanet.com>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] For Sale: 1949 Chevy 3600
> >
> > I've (or my fiancee) have decided to sell my 1949 3600 to make room for
> her new car. It's red, has a later 235, 4 speed, and is a good, original
> California truck. It's been converted to 12 volt, and it is my daily
driver.
> I just replaced the alternator, which is the only thing I've had to do to
it
> (besides changing the oil) in my 7 months of owning it. My friend owned it
> for 2 years prior to me purchasing it from him and never had any problems
> with it. It has one spot of rust in the drivers side cab corner and the
> right rear fender has a dent in it, but otherwise the body is very solid.
it
> has not been lowered, cut up, or altered in any way. It still has the
> starter pedal and the pneumatic wipers. I'm asking $2300, since that is
what
> I bought it for last year. It is located in Sacramento, California.
Thanks.
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:42:52 -0800
> > From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Need help on 58 Suburban I.D. tag
> >
> > I'll give the # a try:
> >
> > 3A - 3100
> > 58 - 1958
> > K - Kansas City, MO Assembly Plant
> > 137025 - Represents the production number
> >
> > Joe
> > - -----Original Message-----
> > From: Knapik, Robert J <robert.j.knapik@intel.com>
> > To: oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Monday, March 05, 2001 9:10 AM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Need help on 58 Suburban I.D. tag
> >
> >
> > >I've got a buddy who has a weird stamp on his vin tag...
> > >it looks like this
> > >
> > > Chevrolet
> > > c58-324
> > >3A58k137025
> > >
> > >Can anyone tell me what the center numbers mean?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >
> > >Bob Knapik - Mesa, AZ
> > >58 GMC NAPCO
> > >http://tbob.jumphobbies.com
> > >mailto:Robert.J.Knapik@Intel.com
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 14:16:02 -0700
> > From: J Forbes <jforbes@primenet.com>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] TF rewiring--suggestions
> >
> > John--
> >
> > I used a Painless kit in my 55 Chevy Belair. I have
> > installed a Chevy Duty stock type kit in someone
> > else's 58 pickup.
> >
> > The Painless non-GM column kit does require you to
> > add the appropriate connectors for your ignition
> > switch and turn signal switch. I'm not sure about
> > the Ron Francis kit...I prefer the GM wiring method
> > that Painless uses, because I'm used to it, and I
> > understand it pretty well, and have the color code
> > memorized, etc. The problem with the Painless kit
> > (and probably the Francis kit also) is that it's
> > designed mainly for street rods (48 and older
> > cars/trucks with later model running gear), and
> > doesn't fit 50s cars and trucks exactly
> > right...without doing some extra work.
> >
> > I need to do the wiring on my 57 Suburban one of
> > these days, and what I really want is a Painless kit
> > that has the nice fuse block they use, but also has
> > stock connections for lights, gages, etc. I think
> > to get what I want, I'd have to get both kits, and
> > do a lot of work...and it would cost a lot and keep
> > me busy for a week.
> >
> > Instead, I'll probably use the stock type harness,
> > and add fuses and extra wires as needed. It takes
> > some work, but doesn't cost as much.
> >
> > For you needs, I suggest you think carefully about
> > what your truck really needs. ARe you planning on
> > adding several extra electrical accessories? If so,
> > the Painless/Francis kits are nice because they have
> > fuses and wires for lots of extra things. However,
> > if you are just going to add one or two extra
> > things, then the stock harness, with some add ons
> > (and some extra safety things such as a main fusible
> > link) will do the job. Some wiring competency is
> > required when you make any modifications...so be
> > careful!
> >
> > If you get a Painless kit for a non-GM column, it
> > will probably be easier to use...because it won't
> > have the funky connectors for the ignition switch
> > and turn signals that were used on 70s-80s vintage
> > GMs. With the kit for GM column, you'd have to cut
> > the connectors off and use the older style
> > terminals, and the igntion switch wires may not be
> > long enough (just guessing, though).
> >
> > You can buy the correct contacts to use in the
> > orignal older GM plastic connector housings...I
> > think real auto parts places have them, as well as
> > the GM dealers. I have some of the part numbers out
> > in the shop...or look in the dealer's Standard Parts
> > Catalog, if they still use such a thing.
> >
> > Hope this helps...
> >
> > Jim F
> > 59s in AZ
> >
> > > I'm thinking about re-wiring my 59 TF and had a couple of questions:
> > >
> > > Will these aftermarket kits such as Ron Francis, Painless etc have
> provisions for using the
> > > stock column and turnsignals etc...or will I need to splice them in
> myself? What I meen is,
> > > will they have plugs for older GM non-keyed columns?
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm trying to decide wether to buy a kit for Gm or non-gm column.
> > >
> > > Have any of you guys used this type of kit on a fairly stock truck?
> > >
> > > Thanks, John Schulz
> > >
> > > Any suggestions, ideas, concerns?
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 14:29:50 -0800
> > From: "Brian _" <pkupman57@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] TF rewiring--suggestions
> >
> > hi,
> > with the Ron Francis kit, when you order, they ask you several
questions,
> > they basically custom build your harness for you with GM color codes and
> > more individually marked terminals than anything painless has. you can
buy
> > it with a stock TF turn signal switch and the harness comes with a new
> > headlight switch and dash switch that can use stock knobs and comes with
> its
> > own one peice connector.
> > for the money $430 last i checked i think, the Francis kit is great, its
> > what i will soon be putting into my, fairly stock '57
> >
> > Brian M
> > Atwater, CA
> > '57 3200
> > '00 Dodge Neon
> >
> >
> > also, with Ron Francis, Ron himself answers any and all emails his
company
> > gets, and answers to questions come in less than 24 hours.
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:17:39 -0600
> > From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Welding Progress Report
> >
> > Awhile back I shared with you all my dismay about what previous owners
> seem
> > to think they have the right to do with their trucks. In this case,
> someone
> > took a pair of tinsnips and cut out a huge hole in the dash to
accomodate
> a
> > much larger radio than would normally fit. The hole wasnt even square or
> > neat. It was just snipped out and then holes drilled high and low to
bolt
> it
> > in. No effort was made to make it look like anything but a garbage
truck.
> > Okay so I am slowly getting over it but I do have good news....
> >
> > I went to the salvage yard and had the owner torch out a piece of the
dash
> > on a salvage truck that was slightly bigger than what I would need to
> patch
> > my dash. I then took a die grinder and trimmed this piece so it was
square
> > and manageable to install in the dash of my truck. After sandblasting
the
> > piece and cleaning the edges, I put that piece up to the dash and drew a
> > line around it in the exact place I needed to cut the old mess out of. I
> was
> > very careful to measure several times and make sure I cut slightly
inside
> > the line to ensure there were no surprises. The idea was to butt weld
the
> > piece into place so I needed NO gaps anywhere. I proceeded to cut the
hole
> > out of the dash and it was slightly too small (just like I wanted). The
> > little 3" die grinder makes the best trimmer for enlarging the hole. If
I
> > used my Makita grinder, it would have been too aggressive. After I made
> the
> > hole exactly perfect.. and this is a challenge that takes patience more
> than
> > anything else.. I took the grinder with a 120 grit flap disk and cleaned
> off
> > the old paint around the hole. This is a very important step before butt
> > welding thin sheetmetal. It takes the contaminants out of the picture
> > allowing a good clean weld with minimum heat. I then placed the new
piece
> in
> > the hole and used several welding clamps to hold it in place. You have
> only
> > one shot to do this right, so the clamping is real important. You need
to
> > make sure its even with the dash and that isnt as easy as it should be.
> Your
> > next hazard is that butt welding thin sheetmetal is not easy since the
> > initial amperage from the welder wants to blow a hole in the work
instead
> of
> > adding weld to it. Strike the welder against the dash first and then
> quickly
> > run the weld over the crack. The dash first since thats where the welder
> is
> > grounded to and makes the best contact.
> >
> > Once you have it tacked in place in about 6 areas... and only tacked..
you
> > cant use the welder like a sewing machine and stitch it up. You need to
> run
> > a very small 1/4" or so tack in one place, then go across to the other
> side
> > and do another, and then on top, bottom and repeat until the entire
piece
> is
> > welded in. Its very tricky because you not only have to worry about
> blowing
> > a hole in it, but the worst enemy is warpage. If you apply too much heat
> to
> > one place (and almost none is too much) you warp the dash and it would
> look
> > really bad afterwards and then almost impossible to repair.
> >
> > Now, instead of doing what is normal and grabbing your Makita with a
> > grinding disc, put a 120 grit sandpaper flap disk in the Makita. Even if
> it
> > takes longer to do it, it will not be too agresssive and really makes
for
> a
> > smooth base. Also, grinding can overheat the metal and cause warpage.
Run
> > the flap disc for short periods before moving on to the next area, then
> > revisit the areas that are needed. In case it isnt clear, I welded on
top,
> > not under the dash. Although ones first impression that its better to
weld
> > under the dash, you quickly get over that when you cant get in where you
> > need to easily while doing such intricate work.
> >
> > After the welding is completed, its my opinion that no matter how good
you
> > are in welding, there is no getting around the need for a skim coat of
> > filler. Welding just doesnt make for a perfect finish no matter how hard
I
> > try. Trying too hard can warp the work and cause you great pain. I used
a
> > product from Sherwin Williams called Gray Spot Putty. I put some on my
> > finger and just rub it into the places it needed and then let it dry for
> > about an hour before sanding with 300 grit. After the spot putty, I used
> > Sherwin Williams Gray Primer Filler and then resanded.
> >
> > How does it look? I would bet there is no-one on the planet that can
tell
> > this piece was ever welded in. The work came out exactly as I had
> > envisioned. I cant imagine anything more satisfying than seeing that
> hacked
> > up dash transformed into a source of pride.
> >
> > We spend to much time worrying about our individual rights but when we
> sell
> > a vehicle to someone else we figure what the heck.. pass on the trouble
to
> > the next guy, afterall, its not my problem anymore. What we sometimes
fail
> > to realize is that we are all in this together and someday that person
may
> > have to make the decision as to wether or not to pull your sorry butt
out
> of
> > a burning car or something. As to wether I would pull the good ole boy
> that
> > hacked this dash all up out of a burning car.. I suppose, but I can
always
> > fantasize! Cost for the entire escapade was gas to drive 180 miles to
the
> > salvage yard and back, the $25.00 for the salvage owner, $20.00 in putty
> and
> > materials, and about 10 hours of my time.
> >
> > Hope this helps someone! :) (especially if you have a tinsnips in your
> > hand!)
> >
> > Deve Krehbiel
> > Hesston, Kansas
> > 1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400 * 50 3100
> > www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: 07 Mar 2001 16:13:39 -0800
> > From: Michael Mendonca <mm@service-quality.com>
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Welding Progress Report
> >
> > Deve,
> >
> > What a great account of the process you just did. As it turns out, I
have
> just completed a similar project on a much more minor scale on my '54
Chevy
> 1/2 ton. The PO had drilled 3/8 inch holes into 3 of the vertical rails
to
> "miss-mount" a 12 V windshield wiper unit. The holes looked like they had
> been drilled with a wood bit and done with a beer in one hand and a smoke
in
> the other.
> >
> > After mineral blasting the entire cab, I JB welded a piece of sheet
metal
> behind the holes and filled them in with the same stuff. Also, I used
spot
> putty to clean up any small imperfections and no one can tell.
> >
> > Thanks for the story.
> >
> > Michael
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 20:48:44 -0500
> > From: john j tonyes <flfox1@juno.com>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] brake drum removal
> >
> > Don't really know how to be nice about this but here I go.
> > For all of you young fellows. From us old F@#$&, there was a tool to
> > remove the rear brake drums very easy. I will give you the name of the
> > Co. that made it and the part number. I am sure that some else made
it.
> > This was back in the 50's, when I bought it. K-D Mfg Co. No 284 .
> > There were two of them in a set. You put them in the two round holes in
> > the brake durm and it would pull the drum off, yery easy.
> >
> > I still have them and they sure help me in my restoration.
> >
> > John T.
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 22:43:03 EST
> > From: MarkNoakes@aol.com
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Redoing seats
> >
> > It's time for me to tackle getting my Suburban seats redone. My plans
are
> to
> > powder coat the frames in a close to original color. I also want to
have
> two
> > sets of covers made for the seats per a plan that we have used with our
> home
> > couch and love seat. . .nice standard conventionally installed
upholstery
> as
> > a base but with slip on, form fitting, zip to hold in place seat covers
> that
> > go over the nice stuff for daily wear and tear. The base is in
upholstery
> > fabric; the covers are upholstery grade denim.
> >
> > I really ought to take the seats down to the springs and replace the
> padding.
> >
> > Where can I get original style padding? I've got most of the regular
> > catalogs. Many of them have upholstery kits, but I don't think that
they
> > show the burlap (jute?) style padding.
> >
> > Or should I not worry about trying for original? Most shops these days
> just
> > use foam, don't they?
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Mark Noakes
> > Knoxville, TN
> > 58/56 Chevy Suburban, V8, 3speed + OD
> > 59 GMC Suburban, V8/Hydramatic truck looking for the V8 and a NAPCO
> > conversion kit
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 02:04:18 -0600
> > From: "Ronald I. Givens" <givens@hal-pc.org>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] color of gauges
> >
> > Howdy all,
> > I have a 51 gmc suburban...
> > My gauges and speedometer are dark dark brown or black...some fading...
> > amp gauge has "-50 to +50"...
> > Are these the original gauges?
> > If not what did they come out of?
> > thanks for any info
> > ron givens
> > 51 gmc?
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of oletrucks-digest V2 #1247
> > ********************************
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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