Hi Deacon -
When you rebuilt the alternator did you check the diode bank to see if all
the diodes were good?
If you have door jam switches for the dome light are you sure to have the
doors closed when connecting the wire to the alternator. Any type of
drain will cause the spark so you need to be sure that everything that can
be a drain on the battery is off if your going to use that test as an
indication of drain.
Did you try disconnecting the negative battery cable and connecting a test
light between the cable and battery. If their is a drain the light will be
on and then you can go and disconnect the red wire to the horn relay and
then the wire to the alternator or any other connection you can think of
until the light goes out.
Just wondering if your running the battery wire from the alternator into the
cab and Amp meter or just going from the alternator directly to the starter
terminal on the starter which connects to the battery + terminal.
How are you energizing the alternator to start charging. Are you running a
wire from the ignition terminal to the #2 terminal on the alternator or are
you jumping a wire from the main bat terminal on the back of the alternator
to the #2 terminal? The only reason I ask is because if you doing the
second method I would think that would be a little drain on the battery and
cause the ground wire to spark.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Karen Magill <dnkmagill@abi.tconline.net>
To: oletrucks mail <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 19, 2001 11:59 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] battery drain
>Help!!! I have a problem with the battery going down and I rebuilt the
>alt. but still get a spark when you touch the ground cable to the post
>( short ,right?) I have no fuse box on my 55 2nd series, 305 w/ internal
>reg. and have removed the original regulator except for the red wire to
>the horn relay. Any suggestions? Deacon Magill
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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