It's no fun to work on a hot engine. Also, even if you start with a hot
engine, by the time you get to the last valves (I work slow)the engine is
considerably cooler and your adjustments won't be consistent. I usually add
.002" to the hot spec for a cold engine and then recheck the clearances when
the engine is hot. Very close! The 216 manual has a chart showing
variation in valve clearance during warm up. An interesting thing to note
is the clearance at cold and at normalized, after 20 of running, is about
the same! The variation occurs during the warm up period.
Whitney Haist
Orinda, CA
Chevy trucks: 1928,1939,1946.
www.haist-usa.com/1939truck
www.haist-usa.com/artdecotrucks
mailto:whitney@haist-usa.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rob & Margie J.
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 5:40 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com; _Oletrucks
Subject: [oletrucks] adjusting valves-cold
I have the details on setting the valves (ie. the order and which to do at
which time), so I know more or less HOW to do it, but everything I've found
only gives the "hot" settings. .008/.018. The manual says that the cold
settings can vary as much as .005", and since I am trying to get in the
"ballpark" with a cold engine, how do I get in that ballpark? I assume I
want
my valves a bit too loose, rather than a bit too tight, so that I can get it
hot, and then set them to the final setting...so, what would be the right
setting to start with? Tighter or looser than the hot settings? Seems
looser
is the right answer, as when everything heats up, the metal should all
expand,
thereby reducing the gap...but just HOW much is too loose, and how much is
not
loose enough?
Rob
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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