Thanks to all that answered on the steering ball stud removal. So far, they
don not seem to want to budge out of their respective sockets. When I
ground off the mushroom of the stud on the bottom of the steering arm, all
the metal seems to blend together and I can not see where the stud changes
to steering arm material. When I went to a auto shop, the guy couldn't
figure out how to hold the arm while attempting to press out the stud.
There really isn't much of a lip on the top side to work with. Am I missing
part of the process? I used the technique on Wayne's web site but still run
into the problems above.
Also - I have been trying to get my enclosed driveline and bell connector to
mate up with the transmission output. I'm using a GMC 270 CID inline with a
52 4 speed and stock (except for rebuild and 3.55 gears) rear end. The
problem is the drive shaft yoke center seems to be about 1/2 to the right of
the transmission yoke center where the u-joint joins the two. I've made
many measurements and everything seems to be in alignment except for this.
Torque tube, frame and axel are straight. Engine and trans are in straight
and centered. Has anyone else experiences this???? If so, how was it
resolved??
Before I forget - The manual calls for a spacer between the bell connector
and the transmission housing. I have several paper gaskets but none (even
if multiples are used) will cover the gap between the bell connector cap and
trans body. I've never seen anything advertised for this as a spacer. Any
ideas??
Grant
50 GMC 1/2T
45 Chevy Suburban
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