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[oletrucks] Still having TF power brake problems - any further advice?

To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] Still having TF power brake problems - any further advice?
From: "Carl & Becky Ham" <the_hams@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2002 21:18:18 -0500
I wrote approx. 2 weeks ago asking for advice with my brake problems since 
converting to power brakes.  Here's an update of what I've done but I'm 
still not satisfied and need some help.

BACKGROUND:
'56 Chevy 1/2 ton stepside with stock suspension and brakes.  Purchased a 
power brake conversion consisting of a vacuum booster, master cylinder and 
mounting bracket (under floor).  Specified 4 wheel drum/drum brake system 
when I ordered the conversion.  Had a local garage install the system over 
the winter months.  They had to make some new lines for the front brakes 
because they had so much trouble bleeding them with the new system.  Also 
purchased speed bleeders for all four wheel cylinders.  Got truck back in 
the spring, but didn't drive much as I was rewiring, installing power 
steering and tilt steering column, new automatic transmission, lowered front 
end by removing two leafs from front springs and smoothed the dash.

Finally got everything together and started seriously driving about 4-5 
weeks ago.  Immediately noticed the truck pulling to the right during hard 
braking.  Rear brake on driver's side smelled hot and eventually burnt the 
new paint off the drum after approx. 300 miles.  Removed both rear brake 
drums and driver's side linings/shoes were 50% of the other side (both were 
new last year).  Thought driver's side rear may have been adjusted too 
close, so readjusted both rear brakes and repainted driver's side drum.  
After a test drive the same problem on the driver's side (drum hot to the 
touch) compared to other wheels both front and rear.  Suspected driver's 
side rear wheel cyliner bad, removed (it WAS full of rust, one piston 
stuck).  Tip-off was jacking the rear end up, wheels turned fine until I 
started the truck and applied brakes, driver's side would not move after 
brakes engaged.

Replaced wheel cylinder (local AutoZone had one in stock for $10.85), rebled 
brakes and readjusted all four wheels per specifications (adjust in until 
drag, then back off 7 notches).  Another test drive, SAME results.  Took 
truck back to local shop that did the conversion and complained, they 
checked it over AND found when they installed the power conversion they had 
to move one of the parking brake cable pulleys back about 2-3 inches on the 
frame.  Somehow this resulted in the parking brake on the driver's side rear 
keeping the brake shoes engaged with the drum (when the brakes were applied, 
but would later loosen up).  Loosened the rear parking brake cables and 
driver's side drum doesn't get hot anymore.  WHEW!!

Test drove truck and it STILL pulls to the right during hard braking.  
Almost feels like the rear brakes are trying to move the truck to the right. 
  Do I need a proportioning valve to keep the rear brakes from engaging too 
early?  I'm about ready to chuck it all and put in an IFS and Ford 9 inch 
rear end with disk brakes all around.  Am I overlooking something?  Any 
advice appreciated, sorry for the lengthy story but thought if I put the 
details in it would save a bunch of questions later.

Carl Ham
'56 Chevy TF Stepside
Pontiac, IL



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