I don't understand the question. If you have an alternator it should have an
internal regulator, and you don't use the old firewall mounted regulator at
all. You can take it off and hook the two big 10gauge wires together that
were on it and the ammeter will work then. If it is a true "one-wire" alt,
just hook a 10 gauge wire up to the nut terminal on back of alt, and hook it
to the starter where the positive battery cable is connected to it. That
will follow the path of cable back to battery to charge it. You may need to
rev your truck up to 1200 rpm or so to start it charging, will charge at
idle after that initial rev.
If not a one-wire, you can hook a red wire from the same lug swing it up to
the first flat terminal on side of alt, and another off the second terminal
can go to a hot wire off your ignition switch. That will give 12 volts to it
with key on, and it will charge right-away from idle w/out revving. Still
need the 10gauge to the starter positive cable also.
G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750
glperry@fwi.com
Big AD trucks, COE
MM tractors and 1 Oliver!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kgbt3@aol.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 28, 2002 2:14 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] 59 Apache
> I'm looking for info on proper wiring of a single post alternator . Which
> wire is connected to what terminal on the regulator? Is there a better
> option? Solid state?
> Thanks
> Gary Thomson
> KGBT3@aol.com
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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