John based on your picture taken in 1960 (from your site) you and I must be
about the same age. You did a good job sorting out the options.
I used a kit to put disk brakes on the front of my '55 1st Suburban. The
improvement in braking is fantastic. Body roll is still scary, since I've
still got the beam axle up front, and even with the sway bar, it does make
one take corners with a little more caution.
I've cleaned and greased everything in the suspension, but have not replaced
tie-rod ends, drag link or shackles. With that as context I find the stock
suspension very harsh. I'm sure I could improve it if I replaced a few
hundred dollars worth of parts and put Teflon between the springs, but it
would still lean hard in corners and require strong arms in parking lots.
Based on my experience with the suburban I'm putting a subframe on my '54
pickup. I want it to drive like a car, and car suspension from a car with
similar wheel base, track width and GVW seems like the easiest way to get
there. I'm paying a guy with experience modifying frames to put it together
for me.
Once the pickup is ready to drive daily I plan to use the Chevy pickup IFS
to update the suburban. I want it to handle better, ride better, and have a
GVW rating that will allow me to pull a trailer with something like a pickup
on it.
I think its very important to think through intended use before choosing an
approach to modernizing suspension and that having thought it through the
solution that one guy loves might not work at all for the next guy (or gal).
Steve@OldSub.com
www.OldSub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jrdorsey" <jrdorsey@strato.net>
Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Hello, Lisa
Lisa,
There are advantages and disadvantages to each.
1. Subframe. Advantage: Complete suspension in one package, ability to
lower it more than the original frame. Disadvantages: Subframes are
really, really nitpicky about getting tham lined up and placed
correctly. If they are not lined up your truck will drive down the road
crooked. Instead of having a frame made of one long piece of steel, you
now have a frame made of two pieces of steel welded in the middle. Your
welder better REALLY know what he/she is doing. I have seen poorly
welded frames break, heck, I've HAD a poorly welded frame break.
2. Mustang IFS. Advantage: Mostly complete suspension that bolts/welds
onto the exsisting frame. Disadvantage: You are putting parts originally
designed for a 4 cylinder Pinto firebomb under a high-horsepower V8.
This is great for trailer queens and weekend crusiers but I wouldn't do
it for any type of regular driver. Yes, I know many people do, but at
the risk of sounding like your mother "If (insert name) jumped of a
cliff woud you jump off a cliff too?"
3. 70's-80's Chevy pickup IFS. Advantage: Mostly complete suspension
that bolts/welds onto the exsisting frame. Keeps ride height about the
same. Good solidly built parts that have been proven on millions of
trucks. You can get the rear axle from the same donor truck to have a
matching track width. Disadvantage: Needs custom spacers, needs separate
steering gear mount (kit available from a vendor). Track width is wider
(can be hidden with backset wheels).
4. Original axle with disc brakes. Advantages: You already have it. It's
worked for 50 years why change now. Body roll when cornering will scare
the piss out of you and make you drive slower so you live to be my age.
Disadvantages: It's probably really worn out by now and would need a
complete rebuild.
As you can probably tell, I lean toward the Chevy pickup IFS. Wayne just
did one and has his experience here:
http://www.itswhatsnext.com/ifs%20project.htm
My '49 is original with disc brakes, but I am a crotchety old coot (ever
watch "Futurama"? Think of the professor), Besides my father would come
back to haunt me!
Oh, yeah! Option #5. Find an orignal NAPCO 4X4 and I'll install an IFS
for you free just to get the old parts! ;-)
Lisa Freeman wrote:
> I really like the idea of keeping the truck all original, but I also have
> some issues with that. See, I have this retarded need for power, and I'd
> really like to be able to drive it on the highways and whatnot. Plus, I
> have some problems functioning without power steering and some of the
other
> luxuries that weren't included back in the day. So I'm going with the
rod,
> no flashy paint job with flames or anything though, outside needs to look
> original(ish):) So, I know this thread has sorta been touched on but what
> is the best (or good) donor vehicles for the sub frame? I've heard mostly
> of people using camero or mustang2 frames, what else is there? And what
are
> things that I should look for to do this right? Or can the original frame
be
> modified to work? Which is easier?
>
> Lisa
>
--
John Dorsey
Wauchula FL
http://www.strato.net/~jrdorsey
'49 3800 Chevy Panel
'52 640 GMC Firetruck
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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