Hi all
Most gas gauge problems are with the sending unit, the gage itself will work
on either 12 or 6 volts , but will be super sensitive on 12v because it
operates by a magnetic field. The resister will calm the gage needle down,
but straight 12v shouldn't smoke the gage. My '46 has been operating on 12v
for over 10 years on 12v without a resister. I put a resister on my '54 only
after I wired everything up to get it working, it had a bad sending unit
plus a bad float.
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Pewterbaugh" <dpewter@email.msn.com>
To: "oletrucks list" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>; "Parkinson, Rob"
<Rob_Parkinson@jdedwards.com>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Electrical Questions - horn and gas gauge
> If the gauge has been "smoked", I don't know that you CAN fix it. There
are
> some shops (Bowtie Bits & Heavy Chevy) that "work" on these gauges
(restore
> them & can convert to 12 volt, so no resistor is needed) & they may have
> advice and/or replacements, if that is needed. Also try
> http://www.speedometershop.com/ in CA, but I know they are going to be
> expensive.
>
> The circuit diagram in the shop manual (you DO have one, right?) shows
power
> through the ammeter, then through the ignition switch to one side of the
> fuel gauge (I know that it has to go to ONLY one specific post of the fuel
> gauge-the posts are NOT interchangble-how you know which one is usually
> marked on the back of the gauge; the manual indicates that the sending
unit
> is connected to the larger terminal-I ASSUME they are different sizes,
> because I rewired mine long enough ago that I don't remember). The gauge
> has to have a good ground to it's frame & then to the cab.
>
> The other post of the gauge is connected to the wire leading from the
> sending unit. The sending unit ALSO has to have a good ground (I have run
a
> separate wire from the base of my gauge to the cab body, as my tank was
not
> providing a good ground on it's own). I understand that the gauge (bench
> testing) should have a resistance range of from 0-30 ohms. (I think 0 is
> full tank & 30 is the empty position). Someone else will correct me on
any
> of this if I'm wrong. P.S. even the shop manual states that bad
connections
> (i.e. bad grounds) are the most common problem with gas gauge issues.
>
> Regards,
> Doug Pewterbaugh
> dpewter@msn.com
> Denton, TX
> 49 3104 216 5-window
>
> Want to make money whenever someone uses their VISA or MasterCard?
> www.consumer1st.com/116540/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Parkinson, Rob" <Rob_Parkinson@jdedwards.com>
> To: "Doug Pewterbaugh" <dpewter@email.msn.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 5:55 PM
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Electrical Questions - horn and gas gauge
>
>
> > Hi Doug - thanks for your response. One more question - so where does
the
> power come from to power up the gas gauge? I have wired the sender unit
> directly to the gauge. There is no other wire to the gauge except for the
> gauge lights.
> > I lied one more question - if the gauge is burned up, how do I fix it?
> > Thanks very much, Rob
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Doug Pewterbaugh [mailto:dpewter@email.msn.com]
> > Sent: Fri 6/20/2003 4:25 PM
> > To: Parkinson, Rob; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > Cc:
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Electrical Questions - horn and gas gauge
> >
> >
> >
> > Yes, you will need a reducer/resistor (if it has already been converted
to
> > 12 volts, check for a resistor in line to the wire that already goes to
> the
> > gauge; if the gauge is already wired up, but no resistor in place, that
me
> > be why your gauge doesn't work-burned up with 12 volts applied-that
takes
> > only a few seconds or less!).
> >
> > 2. No, lights for gauges & speedo are part of headlight circuit-nothing
to
> > do with current from tank to gauge.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Doug Pewterbaugh
> > dpewter@msn.com
> > Denton, TX
> > 49 3104 216 5-window
> >
> > Want to make money whenever someone uses their VISA or MasterCard?
> > www.consumer1st.com/116540/
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Parkinson, Rob" <Rob_Parkinson@jdedwards.com>
> > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 3:40 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Electrical Questions - horn and gas gauge
> >
> >
> > > Hi - My son purchased a 51 3100 Chevy.
> > > It was already converted to 12V.
> > > There is no horn relay, so I need to buy a generic one - anyone have
any
> > idea where, part number, etc?
> > > Also, the gas gauge doesn't work - the lights in the gauge do work
> > though - does that mean there is power there for the gas gauge - will I
> need
> > a power reducer between the sender and the gauge?
> > > Thanks for any help.
> > > Rob
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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