Are car frames heat treated? I remember the factory manual on my IH
Travellal covered up to 5 ton trucks, and they were very concerned abt
anyone welding or even drilling holes in the frames. Bob K in PHX, AZ.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hanberg" <steve@OldSub.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] S-10 Donor Chassis (which model is the most correct
? or user Friendly )
> I understand that the S-10 frame is spliced at one point, and that you can
> cut that splice, slide the frame and reweld, making shortening the frame
> easy to do.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andy Johns" <oldtruckguy@mindspring.com>
> To: <Tezzme2@aol.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 11:55 AM
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] S-10 Donor Chassis (which model is the most
correct
> ? or user Friendly )
>
>
> Hello all,
> Well being an S-10 Swapper, I guess I'll feild this one. I used an 1988
> s-10 long bed. I believe 83-92 will work. I am not sure when the model
> changed. I am pretty sure that the extended cab will work as well,
however
> lazers are too short. Make sure to get the master cylinder, break booster
> for pwr brakes, the gas tank, transmission crossmember, and brake pedal
> linkage with it. There is a company called "jags that run" that you can
> find on the internet that sells v8 motor mounts for $45 (flat box, you
weld)
> or $75 pre-welded mounts and an instruction book. The gas tank works fine
> on my truck and I have the filler neck routed into the bed floor.
Speaking
> of the bed floor, I had to raise the bed floor about 3 inches to
accomodate
> the slope of the fram. The s-10 rear end will not handle a v8 very well
> though, so you will need to swa that out. I have been really pleased with
> the swap so far, the only issue was hacking off part of the back of the
> frame (behind the wheels so this is easy) and I am having to extend the
bed
> about 3 inches for the right look. There is about a 3 inch gap between
the
> bed and the cab. For the linkages for steering, brakes, e-brake, and
> shifting it may take some junkyard trips. The s-10 will give you pwr
> brakes, pwr steering, ifs, and disc brakes in the front. It lowers it
> slightly. That is just my two cents worth. It will work, it has worked,
it
> will save a ton of money (I bought my complete frame for $450) E-mail me
> with any more questions.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Tezzme2@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 10:00 PM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [oletrucks] S-10 Donor Chassis (which model is the most correct
> ? or user Friendly )
>
>
> What S-10 makes the very best donor Chassis ? Standard Cab ? Extended Cab?
> which combination works best short bed or long bed? Do blazer's work? if
so
> 2 or
> 4 door? Is a cetain yr better than other? Did S-10 every come with
small
> blocks? or is someone produceing V-8 motor mounts to install one in a
S-10
> chassis? I bet you sure can tell a guy that just got his first old chevy
> truck
> huh. I'm justing trying not to make a bunch of mistakes, thanks for
> everyone's
> help.
>
>
> Sincerely
>
> Steve Rushing
> Ocala
> Florida
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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