re:cutting metal: If you have hardened steel or welds that wear out the good
quality sawsall or hacksaw blades then try using the abrasive type cutting
tools. I haven't checked availability in a while but Remington has made a
"rod saw" which replaced a hacksaw blade and was an abrasive covered rod to
fit a hacksaw frame (still tiring) but I believe they or a/ some competitors
made abrasive coated blades to fir Sawsall type saws. You also might try an
abrasice metal cutting wheel in the areas you can fit it in; the larger 5-6"
or 7" ones or the smaller 2" exhaust system cutoff ones.
----- Original Message -----
From: "oletrucks-digest" <owner-ole-trucks@autox.team.net>
To: <oletrucks-digest@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 4:29 PM
Subject: oletrucks-digest V2 #2073
>
> oletrucks-digest Monday, October 6 2003 Volume 02 : Number
2073
>
>
>
> RE: [oletrucks] Glovebox latch ["Tom Warner"
<twwood@bellsouth.net>]
> [oletrucks] Cutting metal ["William Schickling"
<wschick1@twcny.rr.com>]
> RE: [oletrucks] Cutting metal ["Tom Warner"
<twwood@bellsouth.net>]
> [oletrucks] Re: oletrucks-digest V2 #2069 [Charles Culver
<clca@houston.r]
> Re: [oletrucks] Glovebox latch
[Bottomboard5@aol.com]
> RE: [oletrucks] Re: oletrucks-digest V2 #2069 ["Tom Warner"
<twwood@bells]
> Fw: [oletrucks] Cutting metal ["DON"
<ppm@accesscomm.ca>]
> RE: [oletrucks] Glovebox latch ["Larry Burnett"
<laburnett@earthlink.net>]
> [oletrucks] <Toys> Diecast '57 Suburban by Jada, Hotwheels '59 Task
Force " Chief "... [Gre]
> [oletrucks] wiring [mark
<ccpanel@jps.net>]
> Re: [oletrucks] Cutting metal ["debbie perry"
<glperry@fwi.com>]
> [oletrucks] First time body work ["Brian Krieger"
<btk@mail.com>]
> [oletrucks] T-stat, cooling system general info...
[bigfred@unm.edu]
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 14:25:14 -0400
> From: "Tom Warner" <twwood@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Glovebox latch
>
> http://home.howstuffworks.com/lock-picking.htm
> Tom Warner
> 58 Short Fleetside
> Florida's Treasure Coast
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 14:45:28 -0400
> From: "William Schickling" <wschick1@twcny.rr.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
>
> Group,
>
> First I want to thank everyone on the responses to my first inquiry about
> breaking welds. I am making head way with removing the old hitch. The
advice
> to stay away from tearing through the frame when ripping the old welds out
> was very good. I thought I had most of a weld cut through so I whacked it
> with a hammer and it broke off put took a little of the base frame metal
> with it. I imagine if it were bigger it might have ripped a hole in the
> frame. Getting tough with a big hammer would only gets me repair bills.
>
> Since I haven't located a welder that is willing to come to my house, I am
> using a combination of angle grinder and a air cut off tool. However you
get
> stuck where these tools won't reach. I grabbed my trusty reciprocating saw
> to try to saw through the welds. These welds are eating metal blades like
> crazy. If I put any kind of pressure on the saw the teeth disappear so
fast
> it makes your head spin. I bought what I thought was the best blade my
> hardware store had. There must be something better. Is there a metal,
> bi-metal blade or something made for cutting thicker metals? There are
some
> bigger hardware/home repair stores near work, so I could look tomorrow.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Schickling
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 15:41:11 -0400
> From: "Tom Warner" <twwood@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
>
> Most likely your saw is cutting to fast. bi-metal blades are best but at a
> slower speed than for wood.
> Tom Warner
> 58 Short Fleetside
> Florida's Treasure Coast
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 18:17:25 -0500
> From: Charles Culver <clca@houston.rr.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Re: oletrucks-digest V2 #2069
>
> I heard about a license plate protector made with tempered glass. Cost
> is supposed to be around $80 per pair. Anyone know where I might find
> this item?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Smokey Culver
> League City, Texas
> 1950 3600 5-window (mine)
> 1958 Apache (hers)
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 19:46:48 EDT
> From: Bottomboard5@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Glovebox latch
>
> I am looking for the pointed ball that has a spring on it, attached to the
> hood....does anyone have one for my 51 chevy? thanks...much...Paul K.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 20:08:52 -0400
> From: "Tom Warner" <twwood@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Re: oletrucks-digest V2 #2069
>
> over the years I have bought a lot of tempered glass, mostly for
commercial
> applications
> ie. bar cabinets, doors, etc. it really doesn't cost all that much. if you
> go to a local
> glass shop and ask them for a piece of glass 6" x 16" ( just a number) and
> have it tempered
> it might not cost as much as you might think.
>
> Tom Warner
> 58 Short Fleetside
> Florida's Treasure Coast
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 18:21:10 -0600
> From: "DON" <ppm@accesscomm.ca>
> Subject: Fw: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
>
> From: "DON" <ppm@accesscomm.ca
>
> > Bill,
> > Try a "MAKITA" blade if it will fit your saw, I have found that genuine
> > Makita blades out perform anything else I have tried and I have tried a
> lot.
> > Regards,
> > Don, Sask. Canada.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "William Schickling" <wschick1@twcny.rr.com>
> > To: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 12:45 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
> >
> >
> > > Group,
> > >
> > > First I want to thank everyone on the responses to my first inquiry
> about
> > > breaking welds. I am making head way with removing the old hitch. The
> > advice
> > > to stay away from tearing through the frame when ripping the old welds
> out
> > > was very good. I thought I had most of a weld cut through so I whacked
> it
> > > with a hammer and it broke off put took a little of the base frame
metal
> > > with it. I imagine if it were bigger it might have ripped a hole in
the
> > > frame. Getting tough with a big hammer would only gets me repair
bills.
> > >
> > > Since I haven't located a welder that is willing to come to my house,
I
> am
> > > using a combination of angle grinder and a air cut off tool. However
you
> > get
> > > stuck where these tools won't reach. I grabbed my trusty reciprocating
> saw
> > > to try to saw through the welds. These welds are eating metal blades
> like
> > > crazy. If I put any kind of pressure on the saw the teeth disappear so
> > fast
> > > it makes your head spin. I bought what I thought was the best blade my
> > > hardware store had. There must be something better. Is there a metal,
> > > bi-metal blade or something made for cutting thicker metals? There are
> > some
> > > bigger hardware/home repair stores near work, so I could look
tomorrow.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill Schickling
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 21:16:15 -0400
> From: "Larry Burnett" <laburnett@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Glovebox latch
>
> Cool, thanks Tom. But remind me to keep an eye on you........
>
> - -Larry
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Warner [mailto:twwood@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 2:25 PM
> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net; Larry Burnett
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Glovebox latch
>
>
> http://home.howstuffworks.com/lock-picking.htm
> Tom Warner
> 58 Short Fleetside
> Florida's Treasure Coast
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 22:06:12 EDT
> From: GremlinGTs@aol.com
> Subject: [oletrucks] <Toys> Diecast '57 Suburban by Jada, Hotwheels '59
Task Force " Chief "...
>
> I was busy this weekend, and hit a few stores. Found some "new" Jada
'57
> Chevy Suburbans, 1/64th scale, shiny paint, still customized. Called Low
Ride
> series. Got them at the K&B Toys discount outlet.
> I also hit the jackpot at one Toys R Us today, found some new models
out,
> including a '59 Chevy truck, it's in the wild new " tapered" look, front
ends
> are massive, rear ends taper down. This one is called Hardnoze Chevy 1959,
> it's got a silver paint job with black and gold feather scheme on fenders,
and an
> eagle on the hood. Says '59 Chief on the doors and hood. Number 024 in
upper
> left hand corner, it's # 24/100 of the 2004 First Editions.
> Also found a few HW '64 Impala's in custom paint, and a '47 chevy car.
not
> a bad Sunday! So, just giving the heads up to you collectors out there.
>
> Jerry in Virginia
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 21:59:14 -0700
> From: mark <ccpanel@jps.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] wiring
>
> i have a factory wiring diagram in b/w but it tells colors. i can scan and
> send. interested?
> mark
>
>
>
> http://customclassics.org
>
> northern california
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 01:57:11 -0500
> From: "debbie perry" <glperry@fwi.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
>
> Bill, on saw, cut only the metal, not the welds. The welds are harder.
They
> even cut harder with a torch. Then when metal is out of way, you can grind
> with 4-1/2" angle grinder. You have one of those right??? :-) I would
have
> chosen a torch to whack it off. Then ground smoother after main parts were
> gone. I like bolting hitches on, that way you can remove if needed or
> wanting to save for next truck. I don't think bolting is any Weaker if
you
> use good strong bolts and heavy washers on frame rail side.
>
> G.L. Perry
>
> - -------Original Message-------
>
> From: William Schickling
> Date: Sunday, October 05, 2003 2:33:47 PM
> To: Oletrucks
> Subject: [oletrucks] Cutting metal
>
> Group,
>
> First I want to thank everyone on the responses to my first inquiry about
> breaking welds. I am making head way with removing the old hitch. The
advice
> to stay away from tearing through the frame when ripping the old welds out
> was very good. I thought I had most of a weld cut through so I whacked it
> with a hammer and it broke off put took a little of the base frame metal
> with it. I imagine if it were bigger it might have ripped a hole in the
> frame. Getting tough with a big hammer would only gets me repair bills.
>
> Since I haven't located a welder that is willing to come to my house, I am
> using a combination of angle grinder and a air cut off tool. However you
get
> stuck where these tools won't reach. I grabbed my trusty reciprocating saw
> to try to saw through the welds. These welds are eating metal blades like
> crazy. If I put any kind of pressure on the saw the teeth disappear so
fast
> it makes your head spin. I bought what I thought was the best blade my
> hardware store had. There must be something better. Is there a metal,
> bi-metal blade or something made for cutting thicker metals? There are
some
> bigger hardware/home repair stores near work, so I could look tomorrow.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Schickling
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> .
>
> [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type unknown/unknown which had a
name of IMSTP.gif]
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 12:41:50 -0500
> From: "Brian Krieger" <btk@mail.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] First time body work
>
> Alain,
>
> Where are you located? I also have a '56 1300 half ton.
> Mine is a long wheelbase model. I'd like to swap photos with you to see
what differences we can determine between the Canadian (1300) and the US
(3100) models.
>
> Brian Krieger
> 1956 1324
> Port Moody, BC
>
> - --
> __________________________________________________________
> Sign-up for your own personalized E-mail at Mail.com
>
> CareerBuilder.com has over 400,000 jobs. Be smarter about your job search
> http://corp.mail.com/careers
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 14:26:27 -0600
> From: bigfred@unm.edu
> Subject: [oletrucks] T-stat, cooling system general info...
>
> Hi all,
> I'm trying to get some basic info regarding how my cooling system
> works, or should work.
> I have a totally new system, including motor, heater core, water pump,
> hoses and radiator.
> 1- How does a T-stat work? I have a 180 degree T-stat. Does it *start*
> to open at 180, or is it fully open at 180?
> 2- I have a factory temp gauge in the front of the motor and an
> aftermarket temp gauge in the back of the motor. My back one always
> reads a few degrees hotter then my front one, which I would expect.
> However, I start to get worried when I see it creep up around or above
> 210. Given that the system is pressurized and the boiling point of H20
> is 212 at sea level, it seems like the system should be able to operate
> at well above 212. Is this correct?
> 3- What is the ideal fan set up? I have a non-flex fan w/o a clutch.
> It is set all the way inside my shroud. I have heard that it should
> sit 1/3 out and 2/3 inside the shroud. Is this correct? if so, why?
> Should I run a clutch? Should I just ditch the engine driven fan and go
> with an electric fan?
> 4- What is the opinion on auxilliary pusher fans? Are they just a
> solution to a problem that is not being addressed?
>
> I know I've asked a lot of questions, but I can't seem to find a
> general concesensus on these.
> - -Thanks
> - -alfie
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of oletrucks-digest V2 #2073
> ********************************
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|