Hey Tony,
It's a sickness we all have......
The first thing is to make it safe to roll. Replace ALL of the brake lines,
steel and rubber. This doesn't cost much and can be done in one weekend.
The old lines can rust from the inside out. The master cylinder can be
rebuilt with a $20 kit from NAPA. If it is pitted inside you can send it
out and have a brass sleeve installed...it will then better than new.
Do you have a Hydrovac (power brake booster)? If so they are in the $250
range for a rebuilt unit with your core.
Then check all of the tires and rims....don't need a blow out your first
trip down the road. One tow call could have paid for one new tire.
Don't forget to check ALL your lights.
Then correct the engine problems and do some cosmetic things.
Have fun!
Mike Boteler
'56 4400 Stake
'56 6400 Stake
'56 8400 Wrecker w/Holmes 525
'56 9200 Tractor w/Allison Automatic
'57 10500 Fire Truck
Hughesville, MD
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tony Seideman" <tonyds@bellatlantic.net>
> To: "'Oletrucks'" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 3:44 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Help with fire engine/1948 Chevy Loadmaster.
>
>
> > I just purchased a fire truck that is basically a modified 1948 Chevy
> > Loadmaster.
> >
> > I'm not sure this was a sane act.
> >
> > The truck's body has rust but not much rot. I do not have a great deal
> > of funds available for a frame up restoration, but I'm willing to put a
> > few thousand it to make the thing look decent.
> >
> > The master brake cylinder is shot, and the exhaust manifold is cracked,
> > so I know I start with those two. After that, what's next--and
> > affordable?
> >
> > Any and all advice is appreciated.
> >
> > Tony Seideman
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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