Just remember to close the hood / trunk first! Eric is right about
concentrating on front to rear contact. Maybe rig an 8 foot long feeler
rod in the center of the trip bar, then you could leave the hood / trunk
Gary Lin Burke, VA Metro Washington Council of Sports Car Clubs
BMW CCA National Capital Ch. '88 325is <CSP> '89 Accord <HS>
> From: Steve Hammatt[SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 10:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Lift Stops
> My lift (Ammco) is a sturdy commercial version that
> I purchased slightly used from a local tire dealer (it's rated
> for 7000 lbs.). It has 2 posts that are bridged at the top;
> mounted along the top rail is a foam covered bar hooked to
> a micro-switch. Touch that bar (truck roof, etc.) and everything
> Seems like the manufacturer, in this case, took care of these
> BTW, paid $1500 and they delivered to my shop door. Took
> about 4 hours (with a bit of assistance) to install. Rented an
> impact drill for 4 hours, best rental dollars I ever spent.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Petrevich <email@example.com>
> Date: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 05:55 AM
> Subject: Lift Stops
> >Matt talks about making a lift stop with switches on the lift.
> >Matt (and others) this isn't a flame or anything, but instead of
> >the lift stop on the lift, you would want it on the ceiling. That
> >if you put a differant car on the lift, it would still work.
> >Radio shack has a light sensor that could trip a relay that would
> >off the lift. Mount the unit on the ceiling (about 2 inches from the
> >top) Run the light beam from the front to back, instead of side to
> >side. That would work fine and only cost about $40.
> >LMK if you need any help with plans.
> >FWIW, I use a traffic light hooked up to these sensor to tell me when
> >get my car in far enough. They are real easy to set up.