Eric is correct, cut the crown upside down and things will be much easier.
Corners of walls, whether inside or outside corners are rarely square,
so use some scrap pieces of crown to mock up the corners and adjust the
cuts to be really tight.
I prefer to cope inside corners. Coping runs one side of the corner all
the way to the wall, then cut away the back side of the intersecting
piece so that it fits the profile of the long piece. This allows for a
couple of things. If the corner is not square, there is enough leeway to
not have to fine tune the cuts. Secondly, with humidity changes the
coped joint will not open up as much as a mitered joint.
The easy way to determine the cope line is to cut the end of the crown
at a 45 deg, as you would for a mitered joint. Where the flat 45 deg end
meets the face of the trim will be the line you need to follow. Try it
on some scrap to determine how much back cut you need to do to get the
crown to match up.
It sounds a bit difficult, but it goes fast.
Thusly spake john niolon:
> here's a question for you wood working guys. I'm thinking of putting crown
> molding in a couple of rooms. one is the living room 18'x12'
> with 8' ceilings.
> Is there a proportional ratio between the ceiling height and the height of
> the crown molding.
> I see several sizes from 2.75 up to about 5" and then you can stack it for a
> really wide molding.
> I think with 8' ceilings you could overdo it on molding...
> also this will be my first attempt at crown so hints and suggestions are
> what do you trim carpenters think
> shop content...I will use my compound miter saw, finish nailer, air
> compressor and probably lots of caulk :-)
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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