On Wed, Aug 06, 2008 at 12:37:10AM +0000, Bob Spidell wrote:
> 9) make sure the rings are right-side-up
Measure the new rings. I have gotten mis-marked rings before.
I like to measure everything that I have a spec for.
> 11) keep everything clean--no crud in engine
NO red shop rags on clean parts! They spew fibers which end up in the oil.
> 18) use a light coat of Permatex "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" on paper gaskets
I like to use sealant only on the side that's going on the removeable part
(i.e. valve cover)
unless the gasket is known to have a bad problem remaining sealed.
After you have spent hours hunched over an engine scraping old gasket
sealant off a mating surface while trying not to drop any bits into the
engine innards, you'll know why.
Don't use too much sealant. If it squishes out on the outside of the
parts as you tighten the bolts it'll be squishing out on the inside too.
There it can break free and gum up oil passages.
My favorite gasket sealant is Yamabond #4.
Clean the mating surfaces very well before using sealant. I use carb
cleaner and then alcohol or acetone to get the residue off.
It might help to read some books on general engine building.
For example from A. Graham Bell's (not that Bell, this guy's an Aussie
and still alive) book on two-stoke tuning I learned about the small
tricks to help prevent problems, like stoning the sharp corners
on piston rings to keep the rings from grabbing the locating pin
and pulling it out of the piston (two-stroke pistons have ring locating pins
so they don't rotate- if they did the ends would break off in a port).
I'd never have figured that, or chamfering ports in a freshly bored
cylinder so they don't damage the rings, on my own.
The advantage that you have over a pro is time. He's got to get it
done with as little time as he can spend and still do a decent job
but you can spend as much as you want on your engine.
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