On Tuesday, 21 October 1997 at 15:25:28, Jim wrote:
JIM> ... What do you use to clean carbs? ...
Response by RICH> Swing by your local parts store and get a bucket (with
basket) of carb cleaner ($25.00 or so), several cans of spray carb
cleaner ($1.50 or so each), and a spray-pump bottle of aluminum mag wheel
cleaner ($3.00 or so). Then pick up some pipe cleaners, some wooden
toothpicks, a broad nylon bristled scrub-brush (with smooth bristles),
and some cheap toothbrushes (the childrens firm and soft work best). I
also use a nylon cleaning brush from a M16 rifle cleaning kit (you can
get one at a military surplus store) -- it's shaped like a toothbrush,
has two different textures of bristles with the handle having a short
narrow set that is perfect for getting stuff out of corners and
lettering.
Spray off the exterior and accessible interior portions of the carb to
remove the worst of the grime.
Dismantle the carb completely after you have read the directions for
putting it back together. Make notes/sketches on how you took apart the
linkage, for example, and how it goes back together. It'll save you some
time later on.
Set plastic parts aside as they may dissolve in the bucket of carb
cleaner. Set the rest of the parts inside the basket and lower it into
the bucket. Let it soak for several hours (the longer the better -- if
I'm going to do it on the weekend, I drop them in on Wednesday). Open
the bucket every now and again and 'swish' the parts by rotating the
basket in the bucket.
When you remove the parts from the bucket, let them drain a bit first,
turn the parts over to dump out any pooled cleaner, then rinse them
immediately in hot running water, being careful not splash. You will
want to wear rubber gloves while working with the carb cleaner. Also
make sure that you don't have plastic pipes in the in the plumbing where
you rinse them. You can use cold water (ie, your garden hose, and if
your spouse is not very understanding, this might be a damnably good
idea).
Regardless of whether you used hot or cold water, immediately use
compressed air (wear your safety glasses) to blow out any orifices, and
to dry the parts. This will help get rid of any additional crud, junk,
goo, etc, that's hidden from view. Now take the carb spray, and using
the wand, spray out/off everything you just cleaned in the previous
paragraph, and repeat the compressed air treatment. This is also a good
time to spray clean the plastic parts.
Examine the interior and the exterior parts for deposits, corrosion, fuel
tank sediment, buildup, etc. This likes to congregate in the recesses
and corners. Use a wooden toothpick to scrape it free, and use one of
the toothbrushes dampened with spray cleaner to finish cleaning. Be very
careful not to leave any loosened material in place. Repeat the carb
spray/compressed air treatment.
Do not use any stiff material (a drill bit, or a bit of wire, for
example) to clear out small passages or orifices. You can change the
size of the opening, and it will make your life difficult -- trust me,
use the pipe cleaner.
Under the For What It's Worth Department, before I use the spray cleaner,
I place my carbs on a piece of grating supported by some lumber over any
oil spots in the driveway. The run-off helps to get rid of the stains.
You will also want to wear rubber gloves when spraying off the carb
pieces, as the stuff will dry and split your skin to no end. It also
stays in your pores for just shy of forever, and the scent is guaranteed
to annoy the hell out of you. Use all of this in a well-ventilated area
and away from flames (though the spray cleaner and a match make a handy
wasp nest remover, should any one be so foolish as to try it...).
Set all your interior pieces to the side. Using the aluminum mag wheel
cleaner (for machined, uncoated surfaces) spray down all the exterior
pieces (do this over the oil spots, too). Let sit for a few minutes.
Scrub gently with the broad brush, then rinse, spray again, and scrub the
entire surface with the toothbrushes.
This will make the carb surfaces bright and clean aluminum again (this
also works on other aluminum surfaces such as alternators). The truly
anal retentive among us will then use Simi-Chrome or the like to polish
the surfaces.
Luck,
Rich
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