Leo,
In Lindsay Porter's book, "Guide ot Purchase & D.I.Y. Restoration of the
MG Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite", Haynes Pub., on pages 94-96 they
show how to chisel off the old beading and solder on new beading. One
has to remove the section of beading that fits between bonnet and wing.
Hope this helps!
Good luck,
Dave Woerpel
'59 :()
Leo Speichinger wrote:
> Does anyone have any ideas or opinions on the best way to change or
> repair the fender beading without drilling out the factory spot welds
> &
>
> associated hassles??
>
> I have a bonnet that is in excellent shape except for some rust
> pitting
>
> & flattening on the factory beading that after media blasting will be
> too obvious and I really do not want to use any filler on the beading
> due to fear of it popping off later.
> I have not been able to come up with a good way of doing the repairs
> other than separating the fenders and trying to realign them after
> replacing the beading. Also in the interest of the previous posting
> about paint formulas I had a PPG dealer set down and formulate PPG /
> DCC
>
> acrylic urethane in Iris Blue to match the original color that was
> under
>
> my license plate light. He weighed every part as he mixed so as to
> retain the formula. A spray out matched perfectly. If anyone needs it
> let me know.
>
> Thanks
> Leo
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