No pre-treatment with a metal prep solution is required for Corroless, but
the less rust you start with before painting, the longer it will stay that
way. The metal prep solution will continue to remove rust as long as you
use it and will leave a phosphate coating that is also rust resistant. If
you have a rusty part that you can immerse in the solution, it will totally
remove all rust by itself. I have no experience with POR-15 since
Corroless always worked so well for me.
If you have a rust problem showing at the skin panel over the hinge post,
it is coming from the blind area behind the panel. This is a rust-prone
area on Spridgets and if it is rusting you can't get in there to clean and
treat it. Rust can progress here until holes appear in the skin panel,
and even to the point that the hinge posts themselves corrode and allow
cracks to form around the hinges. This happened on both sides of my '73
Midget. I replaced both hinge posts and skin panels on my car. To prevent
further problems, I filled the blind area with Waxoyl through a small hole
in the kick panels (i.e., the panels outboard of where your feet go), and
sealed all the welded joints on the aft side of the hinge posts with body
sealing compound. These joints are not water tight, and when water gets
into the blind area, as it will through rain or washing, it has nowhere to
drain out.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA
'73 Midget GAN5UD126009G "OO NINE"
'66 BJ8 HBJ8L/36666 "TARHEELY"
'63 BJ7 HBJ7L/20111 "HEALEYUM"
"It is better to remain silent, and be thought a fool
than to speak, and remove all doubt" -- Mark Twain
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From: Michel Gagne <mgagne@unc.edu>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys]--LBC rust techniques
Date: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 7:42 AM
Folks:
Thanks for all of the help and information on rust prevention strategies
and techniques.
Looking through all of your responces is looks s though stripping down to
bare metal with sand paper and a wire brush is the way to go for stage 1.
Several people also suggested a metal prep as step 2 in preparation for a
primer/sealer. Looking through the Eastwood homepage, their tech tips
states explicitly that no pretreatment is required for the Corroless
product. On the other hand the POR-15 homepage state that for proper
adhesion to a smooth steel surface, a pretreatment using "POR-15
METAL-READY" should be used. What are the benefits to this phosphorylation
technique? What do you all think of the POR-15 and Corroless products, are
there any major differences between them or are they comparable? Your
comments are welcome. I'm currently leaning towards the Corroless product
without pretreatment right now, but would like to here your opinions.
On a separate but related issue, how does one protect from rusting the
small gap between the sill and the door post. I can see a problem building
up in there (if I'm being pessimistic), but am unsure as to how I might get
something (POR-15 or Corroless?) in there to quench it.
Thanks to all
Mike Gagne
Chapel Hill, NC
'74 Midget
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