I am running 9.9:1, 286 cam 1380cc. No problems with pump fuel
here in Australia.
I used to have a 266 cam in the same setup (but I wanted more power!!).
You should find the 276 OK for street use given that setup.
Mike
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: GuyWeller@aol.com <GuyWeller@aol.com>
To: Spridgets@autox.team.net <Spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 11, 1998 6:14 AM
Subject: Cylinder Head replies (longish)
>Hey, thanks folks, so many replies, and 'cos I get easily confused as to
who
>suggested what, I will not reply to each in turn, but to the "list" in
>general. Thanks to each and everyone though.
>
>David Vizard sort of suggests the plexiglas idea, but dosn't go into
>sufficient detail.
>I tried it but never thought of using either an "O" ring or vasaline
(sounds
>better, I like the idea of vasaline, it is always easier with
>vasaline.....oops, sorry getting carried away again). My attempt at this,
>without sealing meant that (a) the head had to be absolutetly level to get
the
>air bubble out, and (b) even then the liquid (I used parrafin) sort of
seeped
>between the plexiglas and the head (cappiliary action at work).
>
>So, sand won't give an accurate figure because the sand grains will absorb
>moisture.
>Should have thought of this. There is an old pub trick where you add dry
sand
>to a full glass of water (or beer if its not yours !) you are supposed to
be
>able to add about 1/3 pint dry sand to a 1 pint glass of beer without it
>overflowing. Supposed to work with sawdust also.
>
>Like the plasticine idea, noted the use of oil to stop the plasticine
sticking
>to the cylinder head. You would also want pretty soft plasticine so that
you
>could slice off the excess with a straight edge accurately.
>The method of then displacing liquid in a measuring cylinder is because
this
>is the most accurate way of measuing the volume of your irregular lump of
>plasticine.
>
>Oh, the reason for all this is because I have shaped and ported my head
(well.
>alright, the car's head) and now need to raise the CR. As David V says,
there
>is no absolutely optimum CR to go for, he advises a "gut feeling" approach.
>Fuel on sale in the UK is generally 95 octane.
>I thought I would go for a CR of 9.5 or 10.0, this with a Kent 276 Megadyne
>camshaft, and a total capacity of 1320cc. Road use. Any views on this ?
>
>This is all to go in my "other" car, which is a 1971 Austin Sprite (post
>Healey) which is nearing the end of a 6 (or is it 8 ?) year restoration.
>Total, and I mean absolutely total strip down, bare metal grinding welding
>phosphate dip etch primer 12 coat paint recondition everything new nut and
>bolt rebuild. And yes. I do intend to use it! The main thing to keep me
sane
>('though on second thoughts perhaps I am not the best judge of sanity) has
>been driving my "other" other Midget, 1500 O/D gearbox conversion, as my
>everyday car around the English Lake District where I live and work (a
bit ).
>
>Spent some time thisevening filling the brake hydraulic system for the
first
>time. All new seals, pipes, pistons and stuff, but, although I doubt if I
have
>yet got all the air out, it didn't pose any problems. No use of
pressurised
>mastercylinders or anything like that, just started with the nearest valve
and
>bled through each one in turn. Leave it to stand overnight then bleed
again
>in the normal sequence tomorrow. Am I just too much of an optimist to think
it
>is as easy as that !!
>
>Thanks again to all, will let you know how the measuring turns out for
real,
>idc.
>Sorry this has ended up a bit long,
>
>Guy
>
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