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RE: Carburetor troubles

To: "'William M. Gilroy'" <wmgilroy@lucent.com>, spridgets <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>, mgs <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: Carburetor troubles
From: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 12:04:46 -0400
Reply-to: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
William -

In terms of the "no choke when cold, choke when hot" part of your idea, I 
can't see how that's possible.  The heat mass (the part that has the 
bimetallic spring) only goes on one way, so unless the spring in the heat 
mass was mangled, that's not likely to be it.  Some "mistakes on assembly" 
possibilities exist, however that you should check out:  (Note, I'm doing 
this from memory, so I could be a bit farmisht.)

1)  The fast idle cam and/or the pivot piece that connects the bimetallic 
spring on the heat mass with the vacuum pull-off and the choke needle were 
assembled incorrectly.  Possibilities:  (a) fast idle cam installed wrong 
way around (so RPMs increase as engine warms), (b) pivot piece misses 
connecting with the choke needle or the vacuum pull-off.  (c) fast idle cam 
is jammed against a protrusion in the choke housing, so it doesn't follow 
the choke mechanism.  I've done all three of these at one time or another, 
and this sounds like the culprit to me.

2)  The spring in the vacuum pull-off was installed the wrong way, or not 
installed at all.  The spring goes UNDER the piston, so that if you remove 
the heat mass, it pulls the choke ON.  I've done this one too.  Since you 
assumed that the vacuum pull-off wasn't user-serviceable, this may be 
unlikely, but who knows what a PO has done?

3)  When you mounted the heat mass, you didn't get the loop in the 
bimetallic spring around the tang that actuates the choke.  This would 
result in either too little choke (if the loop was behind the tang) or too 
much (if the loop was in front).  This doesn't seem likely to be the 
problem, but it's worth checking.

The needle and the vacuum pull-off ARE user-serviceable, and all the 
necessary gaskets and o-rings are included in the ZS carb rebuild kit (at 
least the one I got...).

When in doubt, check the University Motors Tech pages on the Zenith 
Strombergs, and ZS automatic choke.
http://www.universitymotorsltd.com/tech/tech041.htm and http://www.unive  
rsitymotorsltd.com/tech/tech042.htm

I would not go the Weber route, unless you were making a number of other 
modifications to the engine.  A Zenith manual choke conversion can be had 
for about $75, or a generic one can be tweaked to fit for about $14.  (I 
did that on mine for a while, and just converted back over to the automatic 
choke.  I'm going to use the dash-mounted pullknob to actuate the heater 
valve.)

Chris Kotting
ckotting@iwaynet.net
'77 Midget  (Drove it to work this morning, and it was just nippy enough 
outside to want a little warmth.)

On Wednesday, August 12, 1998 9:58 AM, William M. Gilroy 
[SMTP:wmgilroy@lucent.com] wrote:
> I have a 1977 Midget with a Zenith Stromberg (ZS) carburetor and an 
automatic
> water choke.  The carburetor was rebuilt but I still have the following
> problems:
>
>       1.  Car will not start without start fluid
>       2.  The one time it did start it idled rough and wanted to stall.  Once
>           it was warm it idled at about 2100 RPM.
>

<SNIP>

> Any help, tips, pointers would be appreciated.
>
> --
> William M. Gilroy
> 77 Midget, which I thought would be on the road this week :-(
> E-mail:    wmgilroy@lucent.com
> Telephone: 732-957-4775
> Fax:       732-957-4775

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