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Re: Finally

To: "Ron Soave" <redlotus@spacey.net>, "Paul A Asgeirsson" <pasgeirsson@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Finally
From: "Guy Weller" <Guy.Weller@nationwideisp.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 12:53:32 +0100
Cc: "spridgeteers" <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
Reply-to: "Guy Weller" <Guy.Weller@nationwideisp.net>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
All these complex measurements and calculations to work out how fast you are
going.....
I just go by the "buzz factor",  or the amount of adrenalin flowing.

and besides, don't tires get bigger in diameter at high speed, or is that
only "high speed" as in F1 and Indy cars ??
(ggg)

Guy
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Soave <redlotus@spacey.net>
To: Paul A Asgeirsson <pasgeirsson@juno.com>
Cc: spridgeteers <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: 20 October 1998 04:44
Subject: Re: Finally


>Now I see the why Nisonger told me to roll it 52' 9"!  I thought he was
>just a bit odd.  For those of us who are "drive way challenged" or who live
>on busy streets, based on Paul's method, for the 52' 9" part you could
>also:
>
>1) calculate (or better yet, measure) OD of your wheel / tire in inches,
>2) Roll the car one tire rev;  measure how many cable revs per tire rev,
>3) divide 633 (52' 9" expressed in inches) by the OD you measured, and
>4) multiply that number by the number of cable revs measured in step 2
>
>Definitely less precise than Paul's method since you are estimating the
>number of cable revs and then introducing error by multiplying by 633/OD,
>plus you will keep your neighbors guessing with measuring and pushing the
>car in a straight line for 52 feet and all.
>
>
>
>----------
>> From: Paul A Asgeirsson <pasgeirsson@juno.com>
>> To: mayfam@sprynet.com
>> Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: Finally
>> Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 1:17 AM
>>
>>
>> Daryl Wrote:
>>
>> On Sun, 18 Oct 1998 19:44:18 -0700 "Daryl and Jennifer May"
>> <mayfam@sprynet.com> writes:
>> >Finally got the Bugeye out on the road after a 2 -year rebuild.  Still
>> >not
>> >finished (furnishings and paint required, plus windshield to be
>> >installed),
>> >BUT SHE IS A REAL GOER, WITH A NICE THROATY ROAR AND TIGHT STEERING.
>> >A
>> >great feeling.
>> >
>> >Two questions:
>> >
>> >1.  Anyone know what speed I am doing when my Datsun tranny speedo
>> >cable
>> >indicates 30 mph on the Healey speedo?
>>
>> To figure the speedo error, you can do this.  On the face of your speedo,
>> usually located close to the top of the odometer, are some numbers.  They
>> would be something like SN5226/06  1347.  The last four digits are the
>> speedo cable count per mile for the original rear axle ratio and tire
>> size.  The Brits were out of step with the rest of the world on speedo
>> gearing back then and geared the speedo head for whatever cable count the
>> car had.  Now all are standard at 1000 per mile, as is the Datsun trans
>> setup with its original rear end gearing and tire size.  They got the
>> 1000 per mile by transmission cable gearing.
>>
>> To get a cable count per mile with the Datsun gearbox, do this.  Mark off
>> in the driveway this distance; 52 feet 9 inches.  Now pull the speedo
>> head and unscrew the cable  from it.  Put a piece of tape over the square
>> end of the cable to act as a flag so you can count the revolutions.  Now
>> move the car EXACTLY the 52 feet 9 inch distance, counting the cable rev
>> as you go.  Count also the partial turns as you get to the end of this
>> distance.  A helper is nice to have on this job. Try to be as accurate as
>> possible on the distance.  The cable count you get will likely be about
>> 10 and 3/4, or close.  Multiply this by 100 and you now have the cable
>> count per mile.  (52 feet 9 inches = 1/100 on a mile)  Now divide the
>> figures from the speedo face by this new figure.  The result is what you
>> now should multiply any speedo reading with to get the correct MPH.  A
>> simpler way is to send your speedo head to a good Brit speedo shop with
>> this new impiracal  count and have them regear and rebuild the speedo as
>> needed.  Usually about $100 or so.  I have a shop that does it routinely
>> for me and they come back just beautiful.
>>
>>
>> >2.  The hood is not a good fit on the left side of the car.  Some sort
>> >of
>> >accident has bowed it up in the area just behind the wheel about an
>> >inch
>> >and a bit, and so it is also a little forward at its rear end down low
>> >(in
>> >front of the door pillar).  What it needs is to be pushed down over
>> >the
>> >left front wheel, and then it should nicely follow the body contour.
>> >Anyone done this before and can advise the best way?  I figure I need
>> >to
>> >take the hood off the car, support it front and back on wood blocks,
>> >and
>> >then load it in some way in the place described.
>> >
>> >Daryl
>>
>> Paul Asgeirsson
>> Morriservice
>>
>> 503-978-3998
>> PAsgeirsson@juno.com
>>
>> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>


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