Hmm, such cutting and welding is not necessary for the type I
have acquired. I purchased the '85 I believe.
I'll drag out all my info and get back to the list.
As I said - apart from a couple of alloy tabs, it can fit directly in place.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Kaplan <rkaplan@us.net>
To: Scott & Glenda Meyers <autox@earthlink.net>; Larry and Sandi Miller
<millerls@msn.com>
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: Suzuki Swift in USA
>
>>Yes Suzuki sold the Swift in the US; I believe Chevrolet also sold it as
>their
>>"Geo?" (memory foggy here...)
>>
>>Will the radiator fit without any modification to the location or size of
>the
>>inlet and outlet?
>>
>>
>>> >Next step is to use a Suzuki Swift radiator. It is *much* more
efficient
>>> >than the old BMC ones. It also has an integral electric fan and is
small
>>> >enough to fit in the right place. It is actually a little skinnier than
>the
>>> >sprite radiator so you need little tabs (make them yourself out of 25mm
>>> >x umm alloy flat bar). to mount it. It is efficient enough for full
race
>>> >motors and is a *lot* cheaper than the allow race radiators! A$50 from
a
>>> wrecker's
>>> >yard.
>>
>
>
>In order to install the Geo Metro radiator vertically (at least the one I
>got out of a 96 metro) you will need to cut channels in to the two front
>posts. You must also cut a slot into the front cross-member to allow
>clearance for the bottom hose. An alternative would be to slant the
>radiator with the top tilted forward. The later Sprites may have more
>vertical clearance and thus may not require these body mods.
>
>I took the cut and fill approach (not for the faint hearted). After
cutting
>the channels I welded patches into the cuts to seal off the frame members
>and cross member (see photo <www.us.net/kaplan/metrorad.htm>). For the
>cross member, I used a piece of pipe, and angled it as part of the patch.
>This gave to bottom hose a nice smooth transition up to the radiator.
>
> The Geo Metro radiator is mounted to the metro by means of lug holes that
>are cast directly into the plastic. The two lug holes at the bottom should
>on no account be cut off as they are cast much closer to the tank than you
>might expect (trust me on this one). You will need to cut out additional
>holes in the channels to allow the lugs to clear (I did not have to do this
>because I cut the lugs off and plugged the two holes I ended up making in
>the radiator tank with PC-11).
>
>I used a hose from a 1986 VW Golf for the top (I happened to have an extra
>hose from my Golf and it fit perfectly, see photo A mechanical fan is out
>of the question with this hose, as it will chop it to bits real fast. I
>used a thermostatically controlled fan (available at Track Auto around here
>for $75.00 + $15.00 for the thermostat).
>
>While this fix is cheaper than many of the after market solutions (cross
>flow radiators and such) I don't think most people are going to want to
take
>this rout due to the cutting and welding required. All I can say is it
has
>solved all of my overheating problems.
>
>Rick
>
>
>
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