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Re: Rear axle seals

Subject: Re: Rear axle seals
From: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 15:28:17 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
In-reply-to: <l03130307b3c2745ef649@[]>
Reply-to: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Good advice.
I can NOT recommend heating the anything ina oven when doing bearings.
Just warm it with a heater, not a torch.

I have had problems with loose bearing fits after I did this.  I can't
prove that it was caused by heating the parts too hot (oven once, propane
torch the second time), but I'll be more careful next time.
That much heat is not needed anyway.  


On Mon, 26 Jul 1999, Jeff Boatright wrote:

> Allen,
> There are a couple of posts about the rear seal and hubs, so look for more
> than one.
> I bought a very cheap set of pullers from HF. I think it is the $13 set you
> speak of. Worked fine, but it's very helpful to: 1) Thoroughly clean off
> the packing grease they come in. It is absolutely disgusting (probably
> animal fat or worse) and makes the job very difficult. Relube just the
> screw with a light oil to retard rust. Use just a little. 2) Cobble up some
> rubber bands to keep the arms from flopping all over the place. Otherwise,
> you'll need three hands to get the puller on and turn the screw at the same
> time. This all will be self-evident when you start the job. Though you can
> pull the hub without a puller, it makes the job very easy, and I've found
> other uses for the pullers, to the point that it's time to find more rubber
> bands!
> For replacement, I put the hub in front of a space heater for about 20
> minutes and got it warm. I put the seal and bearings in the freezer for
> like amount of time. The cold parts pretty much popped right into the hot
> hub. I think I used the plastic cap from a spray can as a drift and tapped
> on it with a small hammer. It helps to have the hub set in a vice. Don't
> squeeze the hub in the vice jaws!! It's easy to squeeze it out of round.
> Only light pressure is needed to hold it as you should only be pressing
> straight down to drift in the seal and bearings.
> Good luck,
> Jeff
> At 4:11 PM -0400 7/26/99, Ajhsys@aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 7/26/99 10:56:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > jboatri@emory.edu writes:
> >
> > << I've done both rear seals. It's like everything else on these cars -
> >  somewhat daunting at first, but no big deal after you've done it one time.
> >  Do check the archives; I have a detailed protocol for seal replacment
> >there.
> >  >>
> >
> > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> >
> > Thanks Jeff.  The post in the archives seems very complete. I printed it
> >out.
> >  How are the seals pressed back in, and is there a trick to how tight to
> >make
> > the hub nut?
> >
> > Also, am I better off buying some kind of puller to get the bearing out?
> > Harbor freight has a puller set for $13 that is 3" and larger.
> > www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf/DisplayItem.taf?ItemNumber=32184
> > That sounds too big, but it looks like it works on smaller things by closing
> > the jaws.  They also have a 2# slide hammer/puller that is smaller.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Allen Hefner
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
> Senior Editor, Molecular Vision
> http://www.molvis.org/molvis
> Mailto:jboatri@emory.edu
> 404-778-4113

    Ulix                                       __/__,__      ___/__|__  
http://students.washington.edu/~ulix/         '67 Sprite     '74 X1/9

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