Bob, Annice,
There is a rivet company in Los Angeles called Hanson Rivet. They are the
ones I got the rivets to replace the plates on my valve cover. They had the
correct aluminum tubular rivets for the job. They even have the hand tool to
mushroom the tubular part on the inside of the valve cover just like the
original
ones. When I called them, they tried to sell me a hundred or so of the rivets
at
a time as they mostly supply business with rivets. I explained my situation
that
I would only need 4 to replace the two plates. We came to a compromise by my
buying the hand tool ($25.00) to install them and he sent me a "sample bag" of
about a dozen rivets each of 3 different sizes. I've got enough rivets to last
for 6 more restorations. They also sell the drive screw that are used to
attach
the engine ID plate to the engine block. Their phone number is (323) 227-4000
or
you can order a catalog from their web site: www.hansonrivet.com
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
Bkitterer@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> Have a hardware question on roll up window Spridgets. We would like to
> re-polish and anodize or chrome (as is appropriate) the windshield frame and
> fittings as well as the wind wing frames and haradware on our Mk III. However
> there are numerous parts that are riveted on these frames. While we can get
> the rivets out the queston is what rivets to use to put them back togather?
> For a number of the parts it looks like "Pop-Rivets" would leave excess
> material in groves that take the glass seals.
> All help is appreciated.
>
> For those interested here is an update on the project. Everything is now out
> of the trailer and has been inventoried. Have tried the wide Rostyle rims
> and tires but with just the empty bucket can not tell if they are going to
> work. Have checked the fit of the wings, grill shroud, bonnet and boot lid.
> The 5-speed tranny and adapter are on the way. We are still wrestling with
> the color. All of the local paint experts say we have to at least scuff all
> of the finished surfaces in order to reprime for another color. Think that
> is an almost impossible task on the inside and in the engine compartment. Do
> not want to blast the car to bare metal which would also remove all of the
> joint sealant and undercoat. Am wondering if I can sand blast, with low
> prssure, the surface just enough to give it some tooth with out going all the
> way to bare metal. One thing is for sure, there are a lot more little parts
> to the Mk III than the Bugeye.
>
> TIA
>
> Bob and Annice
> 1960 Sprite (Mk IV in disguise)
> 1966 Sprite Mk III (Trevor) in progress
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