spridgets
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RE: Brake up grades.

To: britclas@ior.com, spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Brake up grades.
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 16:34:05 -0700charset="iso-8859-1"
Brad,
The only problem with that is there are no "rice grinders" that weigh to
little. Before I started the car weighed in around 1450 lbs.
Thanks for your input... but no thanks,
-Drew 

-----Original Message-----
From Brad Pace [mailto:britclas at ior.com]
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 4:25 PM
To: Andrew.Griffith@ReadRite.com; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brake up grades.


  Andrew,
 It may be more cost effective for you to just by a RICE GRINDER and
install a BUGEYE body kit.
Email me and I will turn you on to a source.
   Brad



----- Original Message -----
From <Andrew.Griffith at ReadRite.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 1:04 PM
Subject: Brake up grades.


I'm Back...
Been off the list for about a year now and things are going to be
slower
here for about a month so lets get started.

Update: I'm still working on the engine conversion of my '62 Sprite to
the
Toyota 18RG (2.0L, dual cams and dual DCOE carbs). I had to rebuild
the
engine because all the bearing were badly worn (but at least they were
still
smooth) and in the process I had everything balanced, upped the
compression
to 9.7:1, upgraded the carbs from 40mm to 44mm and added a TRD header.
Best
guess is it'll be in the neighborhood of 165 HP easy. The tranny is
also
Toyota and after I destroy the factory Sprite rear-end I'll be
replacing it
with a Mazda.

I'm not sure if you've hashed these out lately, but here goes...

Q#1. I've decided to attempt the big brake conversion on my Sprite,
which
I've already upgraded to the standard Spridget disk setup. I've heard
that
all I need to do is get a set of Spitfire rotors, MGB calipers and the
hub-rotor offset spacer from Mini-Mania. But I've also heard that this
conversion it's that straight forward to do because there are issues
with
the steering arm making contact with the spitfire rotor and the MGB
caliper
not being centered over the rotor.
So, if what I've heard is true... how have you people handled these
issues
or any others for that matter? Are the only solutions to bend the arm
and
change the rotor offset?

Q#2. As I mentioned, I did convert my front brakes from drums to disk
but
I'm still using the factory 7/8" bore master cylinder. I know that the
smaller MC bore will require less foot for the same braking... But is
it
really noticeable?

Q#3. If I decide go with the MGB calipers should I also use the 3/4"
MC? Are
the capacities different between the two types of calipers, Spridget &
MGB?

Off-the-wall idea... Did I mention I'm running a Toyota Automatic
tranny? I
hear you laughing! But seriously... Since I'm not obviously using my
clutch
MC... Would it be practical to use one cylinder for the front brakes
and the
other cylinder of the rear brakes? Other then linkage mods and new
brake
lines... would the calipers and wheel cylinders hold up to twice as
much
pressure per wheel? I figure it would only shorten my brake stroke and
make
my brakes more reliable/safer since they would no longer be a single
line
system. Has this been done before?

Any and all opinions are always welcome and appreciated.

Cheers,
-Drew from San Jose


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