Phil, the outside can be pushed out a lot easier but I would use a
portapower usually used at collison repair shops or available at rental
centers. This device is a lot gentler and easier to control than the 2x4
and bottle jack and not all bottle jacks will work in the horizontal
position. The area to also watch is the tire to spring clearance. There is
a clip that holds the leafs together that seems to line up perfect with the
widest part of the tire. This clip can be moved slightly towards the axel
or possibly even removed. Back to the outer sheetmetal, I have pushed this
outward as much as an inch and if done gradually and along the entire area
it is hardly noticable. Just use wheel spacers to get your inside clearance
but be careful that you leave enough threads on the wheel studs for the
nuts. General rule is, stud diameter and distance of threads engaged in the
nut should be the same at the minimun. I have 5 1/2 rims and clearance is
not a problem, now. Hope this helps, BOB
>From: "Phil Profili" <phil.profili@cptii.com>
>Reply-To: "Phil Profili" <phil.profili@cptii.com>
>To: "'Spridget List'" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Rear tyre clearance
>Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 08:26:05 -0400
>
>All,
>
>I am still trying to decide what size tyres to get for my square rear wheel
>arch Sprite. I like the idea of the 175/60 13s (I have 5" wide wheels),
>but
>I see references in the archives to there being a good chance these will
>rub
>against the bodywork somewhere. I also see references to bumping out the
>wheelarches to provide clearance.
>
>My question is: is it the inside or the outside of the tyre that may rub
>against the wheelarch? If the outside, how can the bodywork be bumped out
>without it being visible? If it's the inside, how does one bump it out
>(in?) with a bottle jack and a 2x4 (as someone mentioned, I believe)
>without
>damaging the outer wheelarch?
>
>I'm just dying to get those minilite look-alikes on, so any advice would be
>much appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>--
>Phil Profili
>
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