spridgets
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Re: Rear hub seals

To: "Greg Gowins" <cartman@dnai.com>, "Bryan Vandiver" <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>, "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Rear hub seals
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 10:23:45 +0100charset="iso-8859-1"
References: <200009071738.KAA22186@shorter.eng.sun.com> <004001c018f9$474ebe00$d401010a@newchannel.com>
> Hi Bryan,
>
> The bearing replacement process isn't too terribly bad.  I've had to do a
> few.  I believe you are correct with the size being 1 7/8.  However, I
used
> my dad's 3/4 inch socket set to remove it, and that's back in Texas.  The
> new seal bearing can be put back in by hand.  Just go slow and use lots o'
> grease.  If you end up picking up a 3/4 inch socket set, one of the
smaller
> sockets along with a mallet will help with the installation of the
bearing.
> Just remember to bend back the lock tab washer!  It took me a while to
> figure out why the nut wasn't coming off.  As for the torque setting, I'm
> not sure, but if you get it real tight, the tab lock should do it's job.
> Good luck!
>
> Greg

I'm in the process of welding a cut-off socket onto the inner face of a
Morris Minor halfshaft so that I can put the splined end into the diff and
the other end over the wheel studs on the spridget hub to ensure the nut
goes on smoothly without the worry of cross-threading or slipping off of the
nut.  The Minor shafts are longer and so the plan should work.  The socket
is marked 1-1/8 Whitworth and 1-1/4 BSF.  With an old socket welded onto the
back face of the hub, it should work OK.  I understand that a similar tool
was available as a workshop option from the factory.



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