Paul,
If you only need to treat the surface for minor fill or cosmetic reasons DO
NOT USE BONDO. Use Evercoat Metal Glaze available at a pro paint supplier.
It sets faster, sands smoother and won't leave you with pinhole air
pockets. It also squeezes from a the quart container, so no ladeling from
the can. Use lacquer thinner to immediately clean your spreader and other
tools and you won't be buying new ones every couple days or wasting time
trying to remove the hardened stuff.
When sanding, use 80 or 120 grit for your first cut. You won't need to
press hard and it will cut a staright surface id you use a long board to
sand (get one of those from the paint supply too!) If you use the right
primer surfacer, you can paint over the 120 or go to 180 if you wish. Block
your well primed surface (4 to 5 coats) with 120/320/600 before the color
coat.
Ask me how I know...'-)
PS, I have between 2 and 3 Qts left of the gallon of PPG CLV in Viper Red
I'll sell you wholesale if you're interested.
Gerard
At 7:14 AM -0800 10/30/02, Paul Archibald wrote:
>--- DLancer7676@cs.com wrote:
>> In a message dated 10/30/02 3:56:40 AM Eastern Standard
>> Time,
>> androbus@yahoo.com writes:
>> > I will finish it off is steel
>> > w/o bondo if I can help it!
>>
>> Bondo is a good and useful tool of the refinisher. Its
>> just that it is too
>> easy for amateurs posing as professional bodymen to use
>> it as a fill and
>> cover up for lack of skill and gop it into any crevice
>> existant. You will
>> probably find that you will have to use a skim coat just
>> to give you a
>> wonderful satin surface to paint over, and that is the
>> legitimate purpose of
>> bondo. Very OK to use it, but in a conservative fashion.
>> As you noted, it
>> won't permanently make up for lack of metalworking
>> skills. And should NEVER
>> be used to fill a hole without a solid metal backing.
>> But don't be afraid to
>> use it in your artillery of bodwork supplies.
>
>OH I know that! ;-) That is exactly what I mean, but my
>dream is still to do panel repair with no more than an oz
>of bondo total! ;-) I recall reading in one of my books
>about panel-beating years ago how to even weld in patches,
>and than hammer the weld out, grind smooth, and you can't
>even find the weld! that IS my goal eventually.(too badk
>ilent the book out fifteen years ago, and forgot who ended
>up with it..) When I finally do get to restoring the bugeye
>bonnet, I want to do it the same way, so it's waay on teh
>back burner...
>
>Paul
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