Frank Clarici <spritenut@exit109.com> wrote:
>Josh wrote:
>> How do you shim the tie rod ball housings?
> > how do you get the lock washers to work on the rack?
> > is there a small square void between the last tooth and the metal end
>
> > of the actual rack
>
>
>Josh
>
>I didn't shim the inner tierods. No shims on disassembly.
>I did reuse the lock washers, I popped them out by setting the edge of
>the washer just so in the vise and used my favorite hammer.
>I also straihted out the washer/clip gismo using that same hammer.
>I reinstalled them after sticking the rack in the tube by making sure
>the tabs were knocked down into the recesses then I just screwed on the
>inner tie rod and tightened it fully with large channel lock pliers.
>
>Shimming the tightness or loosness of the rack is straight forward.
>Get it close by the book specs, if it's loose on the bench, remove a
>shim. You will have to road test it for tightness though. If the
>steering wheel does not return by itself after a turn, it's too tight.
>Add shims accordingly.
>
>That void at the end of the teeth is there on all racks. Maybe for oil,
>maybe from milling. I just cleaned it out.
>--
>Frank Clarici
>Toms River, NJ
>2 Sprites, 2 Midgets
>http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
>
When I tried screwing on the tie rods that seemed properly shimmed (new ball
seats/female housing ) It ended up tearing the lock washer tabs off and it
would then rotate. Can a competent machine shop do this for me? -Josh
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