> I'd give Tom Colby at Speedwell a ring and while you are on the phone just
> remind him to send his buddy Daniel that metric thread
> gearknob......................
Huffaker Engineering , Speedwell, Winner's Circle, Mini Mania. All of the
Spridget race shops in the US have a line on them.
> I would pay careful attention to the finish at the axle ends so that
> the position of the near rear oil seal is where the surface is smooth
> and not rusty.
This is critical. You may have to install a speedi-sleeve to get a smooth
surface. Even so, you will probably be fighting leaky seals periodically
for the rest of your days --- if you corner hard enough.
> The hubs are a direct replacement fit of the ones I have seen but
> would need the stud holes enlarging for bigger than standard studs - I
> bet Tom could do this for you.
You also need to enlarge the holes in the brake drums. Some double hubs are
drilled and tapped for retainer screws for the axle and drum, some are not.
Instead of grinding away the backing plate retainer bolts for clearance to
the hubs, simply get some grade 8 allen "rounded" head (I'm forgetting the
proper term) screws. Their low profile clears the hub just fine and you
don't bugger up the head of the regular cap screws.
Double bearing hubs are axle savers. They work great! (except for the
occasional oily brake shoe).
Myles
Mad Mollusk Racing
Double Brg Hubs on a Sprite and a Lotus 7 America with incorrect Sprite Axle
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