My weld engineer says it would be just as strong but is dependent on the
quality of the weld and the weld method (TIG vs MIG). You would also
have to drill out all traces of the larger threads and taper out the top
of the hole in order to get a relatively void free weld.
He did recommend trying a heli-coil first.
Herby
64 MKII Sprite (Herbytoy - patiently waiting)
62 MKII Sprite (the "resto-mod" driver)
billh@aaai.com
http://www.herbytoys.com
-----Original Message-----
From Glen Byrns [mailto:grbyrns at ucdavis.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 10:03 AM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: strength of welded steel
I posted this suggestion yesterday concerning the drilled out shock
mount
plate and didn't see a response.
"What about slipping a flat magnet under the bottom of the oversize hole
and
filling the hole with weld.
grind the fresh bumpy surface flat, locate the shock, mark the center on
the
fresh weld surface, redrill and re-tap? Good as new and you can leave
the
spring pan in place."
I'm wondering if this approach will be as strong as the original steel
or if
the welded and redrilled and tapped hole is significantly weaker than
the
tapped hole in the original rolled steel plate. I know that cranks are
welded
on and reground to standard, but that new crank surface just rubs inside
a
bearing and doesn't get pulled on by a bolt like it would as a shock
mount.
How about it, any metallurgists out there, or horror stories about
welded and
re-drilled holes?
Glen
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