Well, Lester...here are a few ideas...
1.Facet (or equivalent) solid state fuel pump, renew it every 20K or 5
years,
whichever comes first.
To ELIMINATE cooling problems...
2.Alum radiator or equivalent "double" or
"triple" core upgraded original rad.
2a. Upgrade to later multi-bladed plastic
"tropical" mechanical fan
2b. Later alum or deep impeller water
pump
3.Oil Cooler (especially on the stock
"overworked" 948cc motors or small bearing 1098's
4.Flush/renew coolant at least annually,
preferably twice a year to keep system
as clean as possible over time
To ELIMINATE (to the extent possible)
starting/ignition problems...
4.Crane or PerTronics electronic ign.
system with same mfgr's. "matching" coil/wires (or Nology "Hotwires")
Points ignitions normally have a higher
initial resistance to immediate "firing"
when ignition is switched on. Almost
always the case in wet or humid conditions. So, sealing the distributor
when using points is almost a necessity
to eliminate excessive cranking or initial
rough running in wet/humid (cool) conditions.
Make sure you've got good, clean "grounds" from Batt/engine to body.
5.Front disc brakes (for better stopping power and thus, less overall
brakewear
over time) or "Greenstuff" linings.
Don't be chintzy. If you're looking for a
reliable/dependable daily driver than
spend the bucks and MAKE it so.
Start out with a fresh set
or "known" good set of SU's...no worn
spindles or any such other BS to mess
you up before you even get started.
Same with the distributor. Freshly cleaned
and lubed with minimum or no shaft wobble though the electronic
ignitions will "cover" for a goodly amount of this.
Grease and change the oil/filter every 3,000 miles or 3 months
religiously.
Be gentle starting the motor every morning or after a long sit. Get the
oil
moving a bit before firing it up.
Anti-drainback valve or not, turn the
engine over with the starter 5 times before
switching on the ignition, most especially when outside ambient temps.
fall below
40F. Nothing over 1k until pressure is up
on those cold mornings. Adjust the choke
accordingly for summer/winter conditions
in this respect. If ign/starter not separate,
no choke for first 5 turns in cold weather.
No Sears re-refined or cheapo oils. Go
with the known brand names with known
modern additive package.
For halfshafts, drivetrain life...transfer
loads smoothly ALL the time, 100% of
the time. No riding the clutch, no sitting
at a stoplight clutch depressed, no
racing the motor and dropping the clutch,
no "lugging", no over-revving, stay the
hell away from the redline (unless you
"build" it) whenever possible 'cause it's
only got 3 main bearings instead of 5.
Renew the rod bearings every 25K.
Renew transmission lubricant annually.
Renew brake fluid every two years.
Lester...have you had a warm, affectionate relationship between the
"little boy" in you and the "little girl" in
her, in what is otherwise a "responsible" adult/adult relationship??
Sure you
have.
Treat your BE accordingly then,
with affection (unless you've "built"
it for more harsh treatment)
remembering it's really a one way
street 'cause it's a machine after all
and thus, subject to failure no matter
how well you treat it.
This is the kind of relationship I have
with machines....whether automotive, boat
airplane, whatever. I love 'em and I love "drivin'" 'em, land, sea,
air.....whatever.
You WILL have electrical problems from
time to time unless you rewire the entire
car before you put it on the road, and
even then...expect it, anyway. :):)
And last but not least....drive at reasonable speeds in accordance
with surface conditions. If the road
surface sucks, slow the hell down
'cause the suspension set-up is
as archaic as hell!! (Buy a set of
Peter C's "improved" shocks...good
insurance for longer suspension life
along with the best the lever design
has to offer, methinks).
Anyone else, pipe up. What did I forget?
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
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