Still sounds like you've got a little mismatch between need and
resource--using a laser to kill flies. It works, and it's elegant but it's a
bit out of whack (this sage advice from a guy who owns many lasers and has a
use for only one). Still, sounds like fun, and I assume it's not really
about getting a clutch to work.
If I'm wrong in that assessment, then let me direct you one more time to our
friends at Quartermaster. I'm using one of their two-plate rally clutches
with a Cambridge plate flywheel (they machine them from plate steel instead
of a casting). I'm also using a coaxial clutch actuator from a Saab. Once I
got the master cylinder size right (5/8") the clutch is light, controllable,
and hooks up like Paris Hilton (well, okay I don't have direct knowledge of
that last, but it seems likely). No slip, ever, and it's likely good for 250
HP or more.
Peyote had a tilton setup with an aluminum flywheel when I got it from
Baxter. I broke the flywheel bolts and the flywheel was toast. I've never
had much luck with aluminum flywheels.
I switched to something closer to stock--Cambridge wheel and stock pressure
plate and disk. Personally I don't think much of that--way too much weight
and lots of little issues like springs breaking or uneven wear. Changing to
a ceramic paddle clutch helped some, but it slipped at the torque peak
(still came out looking new, even after many races with a little wah,
wha-ing at the torque peak).
So far, so good with the Quartermaster.
Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
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