Always start the buffer when it is in contact with the car, this will reduce
the chance of burn marks. Moving against the direction of the buffer rotation
(at point of contact) cuts more than moving with the direction (bigger
difference than you may first realize depending on the compound in use). If
you use different compounds, then you need different pads. There are books on
this subject. Good luck!
Trevor
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Clarici <spritenut@comcast.net>
Date: Wednesday, September 6, 2006 22:32
Subject: Re: post-paint buffing
To: Dick Byrne <lindalnhvt@nhvt.net>
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Dick
>
> Make sure you have enough paint on the car.
> It will most likely need to be wet sanded.
> 1200 or 1500 wet sandpaper to start with depending on how much dust.
> Follow with 2000 grit. Use a rubber squeege to see if the paint
> is
> *flat* when you scrape the muck off the car.
> If it's not flat, it won't buff up nice.
> Watch the sharp edges as you can sand or buff thru them real easy.
> Seams on the rear, door edges and trunk edges.
> Do not use a hand appied rubbing compound, they make a machine
> buffing
> compound just for new paint. It has no petroleum distilates in
> it like
> rubbing compound. 3M makes 3 grades, If you are happy with the
> flatness
> after 2000 grit wet sanding, use Finesse, it's the least coarse.
> After it's buffed up, use a swirl mark remover, it comes in 2
> kinds,
> light cars or dark cars. Use a small amount of this with the
> buffer and
> you will be amazed!
> Wait a few weeks for wax as the thinners will be escaping from
> the
> paint. If a car show comes up, you can always swirl mark remove
> it one
> more time before wax.
>
>
> --
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
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