When I had new floors welded into my Bugeye for the restoration all that
was available were the later square body pans. They did not have the flat
area with captive nuts, nor the drain holes. I simply drilled two holes
in the same location as the original floor. This located them right on
the angle of the depression in the pan. I then tightened up two nuts from
underneath the car. The gas pedal was now at a 30 degree angle pointed
left in the footwell. I simply grabbed the rubber pedal and pushed it to
the right. The rubber part will slip on the metal tongue inside it and
sit straight up. It seems to work just fine for 7 years now. The only
problem I had was I had to trim the two studs flush with the nuts under
the car as they would contact the 948 exhaust.
Mike MacLean
60 Sprite
56 BN2
Geoffrey P. Muttart
> James
>
> Here's a 2001 posting of mine which should also appear in the Archives
> (assuming that the archives still exist! :) HTH. Depending upon your
> floor, you may have to fabricate a small stand on which to mount the
> pedal.
>
> Geoff
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Pickard" <geowiz.sgy@cox.net>
> To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 12:37 AM
> Subject: Bug-eye gas pedal
>
>
>> I'm installing a gas pedal in the bug-eye. There are no holes in the
> floor
>> for it. There is a little triangle shaped piece of metal welded to the
>> floor. Does the pedal screw to the floor in front of or behind this
>> metal
>> piece? I assume it goes in front, but I want to make sure before I
>> drill
>> any holes. Thanks. I'm almost done with the restoration, so the dumb
>> questions will end soon.
>>
>> Jim Pickard
>> B9473298 ('65 Tiger)
>> AN5L/12109 ('59 Sprite)
>> 2003 Mini Cooper
>> Lafayette, LA
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