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> So does the SILENCE mean that nobody out here has an answer to my question
> or ????? Surely I am not the only one that has encountered this problem.
The silence means that, since you don't want to fart around with shims and
you don't want to convert to tapered roller bearings, you didn't leave much
for us to say. However, here is a dissertation from FR Millmore, another
"They are angular contact ball bearings.
Not the same as rollers. Names matter.
They are to be preloaded, the correct amount. Like the book said. (Unipart
The spacer is a selective match to the hub it came in. Manufacturing
tolerances are the reason for the selection; after that there are no
Bits mixed up must be similarly matched.
IF the spacer is such as to leave play in the correct bearings, then it
should be shortened the requisite amount.
IF the spacer is such as to give excessive preload, then shims should be
fitted to bring it right.
The preload is slight, on the order of .001-.002". I do not know the OE
spec, but this will work fine and give no problem.
There should be NO play.
Play lets the bearings beat themselves to death, making more play.
Play locally overloads the bearing, as the entire load is on two balls at
the top or bottom in each bearing, depending on what the loads are at the
moment. This causes extreme loads in the cage, which causes them to break -
the common failure mode for the original bearings. If the OE brass cage
bearings are readjusted for preload after initial wear-in, they last
Play knocks back the brake pads, giving lousy brakes.
The easiest way to measure preload is to fit a shim on the spacer, and
measure endfloat, then reassemble with correct or no shims.
EG; If with a .005 measuring shim there is .003-.004 endfloat with thin oil
only on the bearings, you are good. Remove the shim, pack the bearings with
grease, and reassemble.
If with an .010 shim there is .006 endfloat, fit a .002-.003 shim.
Be very careful about tightening the nut. Excessive force to line up the
split pin hole will collapse the spacer, leading to excessive preload. It is
best to measure endfloat with the pin hole just a bit short of lined up -
how much short depends on how thick the measuring shim is, and how much
endfloat you have - finesse! One trick is to use shims on the small end of
the spindle, line the splitpin hole up, mark the nut postion, do your
measurements, then put the measuring shim between the bearing and the outer
retaining washer. That keeps the stack height the same = no guessing."
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