The rounded bits are part of the gasket seal for the pan. It can be done
from below if the two Allen screws in the bottom of the front plate are the
correct length and don't protrude too much. The pan will hang up if those
two screws stick through the front plate too far. Be sure to clean the
block and main bearing contact surfaces with a bit of laquer thinner on a
rag to get a good seal from the gasket sealer you will be liberally
applying. I would swap out the crescent seals as well as the pan edge
gaskets since its hard to get the old cork (or rubber) clean enough to stick
well to the gasket sealer. I've used both the rubber and the cork main
seals with both rubber and paper pan gaskets. All seemed to seal well
enough if clean and used with sealer. I use Form-a-gasket #2 non-hardening
out of habit. Works well enough, every store has it, hasn't let me down.
I'm sure most any decent gasket sealer will do the job.
A nut driver handle with a long extension and a 7/16" shallow socket is a
great help in getting the whole mess snugged up in a hurry.
> The front half of the oil pan on my beast is badly dented (DPO).
> I have acquired a used spare. It's rusty, needs cleaning and painting but
> otherwise it's straight.
> Q1. Can the pan be dropped on a MKIII wothout removing anything else??
> Q2. Is it a just case of a new paper gasket and bolting the new one up?
> Q3. Or will I have to do something special about the two rounded bits at
> each end.. (a bad description, but I'm not that techical with names!!)
> Dave G. KK7SS
> '65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
> "Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
> But I'm not so sure about the universe." ... Albert Einstein.
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