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Re: [Spridgets] Hi, I'm new. Please help me and my '76 Midget.

To: Andrew Payne <andrewpayne@intrex.net>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Hi, I'm new. Please help me and my '76 Midget.
From: Bill Masquelier <billmasq@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 18:22:45 -0700
Andrew
If I were in your shoes I would look at Craigslist along the west coast and
import a cheap body that has no rust.
It may cost a bit to ship it but I'll bet that the cost is nothing compared to
fixing yours.
Bill

> From: andrewpayne@intrex.net
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 20:41:45 -0400
> Subject: [Spridgets] Hi, I'm new. Please help me and my '76 Midget.
>
> My name's Andrew Payne from Boone, NC.  I recently bought a 76 Midget that
> runs pretty well, but has a lot of rust.  I broke most of the rules about
> vehicle inspections when I showed up to see the car and it turned out to be
> the car that I owned in high school and sold some 15 or so years ago.  I
> recognized the car from 50 feet away, despite the new color, by the small
> diameter wooden steering wheel and the roll bar (complete with scuffs from
> my rollover during my earlier ownership).
>
>
>
> So, there are many panels with rust and I know how to deal with them, but
> the real problem is the driver's floorboard. Really, the problem is the
lack
> of floorboard. The area has enough rust to hold up a piece of sheet metal
> and the carpet - if you are really careful getting in and out.  Of course
> the area under the seat is perforated as well.  The passenger side is
> rusting, but not scary yet.   There is also a 8 to 10 inch rust line which
> is significantly perforated.  Oh, and the A pillar and sills are bubbling
> and cracking around the front left jacking point.  One last thing, the rust
> seems to be aggravated by seams that were painted together, and cavities in
> sills, etc. filled with something that looks like Great Stuff canned
> insulation.
>
>
>
> This car will never be a show winner, but I want it to be reliable and
safe.
> How is the best way to fix this cheaply and with no prior welding
knowledge?
> I'm not scared of welding, but I do want to be realistic.  I can't hire out
> the whole car, but I can hire a few panels if need be.  So what do I do?
> Patch panels, plain old sheet steel, cut out sections from a donor, or swap
> inner body intact from a donor?  If I change the tub, what are the titling
> implications?  Help!
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andrew
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