Weslake-Monza1330,
Thanks that is exactly what Jim said, run till it stops then check the bowls
for fuel which looks like the easiest test. I also like the gauge idea at
the carb thanks Steven, but that would mean $$ which I still may invest if I
can find one, (any ideas?) wow what a cool and useful gauge to have, I love
gauges especially analog.
As for the cap rotor and coil, I am not experienced with them but now is the
time to learn even if it is only fuel/pump I would like to learn how to test
these electric parts and set points as well as understand how they work. So
this is a good opportunity for me to learn more ; ) I'll try the bowls test
first and then get back to you all on my findings and try and get a youtube
for the test too as it is good for me and others to remember what we have
learned via my videos because they are all labeled on my account.
If it is the pump that will be my 3rd electric pump in 4 years (all USA made
not Mexico or China) think I want to go back to a mechanical pump is this
advised? If it is not the pump I will be learning how to test coil, cap,
wires & rotor. Also I'll get that RED colored rotor arm (where do I find the
RED ones?).
Let the learning begin.
Thanks again to all.
Linda
On Sun, Oct 10, 2010 at 5:32 AM, <WeslakeMonza1330@aol.com> wrote:
> Hi Linda,
>
> I'd try a process of elimination. It doesn't appear to be a fuel delivery
> fault but assuming the car has an electric pump I'd ensure the tank was full
> and then disconnect the pipe from the carbs and pump it out into a can and
> from the can back into the tank for a length of time longer than the car
> runs for it. You need an assistant to do this unless you have a lot of cans
> (well 6.5 gallons worth) or it takes long enough to pump a tank full out
> that you meet the criteria of pumping longer than it runs for.
>
> That test will determine whether or not the fuel pump is ceasing to work
> when it gets hot. An alternative approach would be to run the engine until
> it stops and then remove each float bowl to see if there is still fuel in
> them. If they are empty you have a fuel starvation problem and look to the
> pump but if they are full it's not a fuel problem and look to the electrics.
>
> Electrical problems often vary with heat such that once the engine and
> everything else has warmed up just nicely they play up and you get a miss or
> a complete engine shut down. If the problem is coil you tend to get high
> rpm faults first - engine will not rev or misses at high rpm. The
> condensor, rotor arm and distributor cap or sometimes more than one of them
> can cause the problem your car is experiencing. Do you have a good USED
> condensor, rotor arm and distributor cap you can try? Don't just rush out
> and buy new because some of the new parts are no good except for those RED
> rotor arms which you ought to buy anyway.
>
> Generally fuel problems are rare and really obvious but ignition problems
> are common and not really obvious.
>
> Finally, it looks like you have an aftermarket moto-lita steering wheel
> that someone has made a boss insert for so that you have have the Bugeye
> lightning flash horn push.
>
> Regards
>
> Weslake-Monza1330
>
> In a message dated 09/10/2010 20:08:04 GMT Daylight Time,
> grunthaner@gmail.com writes:
>
> I let her sit 15 minutes then she
> fires up great runs great and then 5 or 10 minutes later she craps out, but
> I see she is getting fuel now.
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