Ed,
Thanks. Problems can really creep up on you with these old cars. You
think they go on forever with routine maintenance but nothing lasts. I`m
beginning to feel a little creaky myself.
I used to regularly cut filters to see what was getting trapped but got
away from doing that mainly because it is messy and I never found anything
before.
The MG has been with us from the start. As much part of the family as
that cat on the window sill.
Since I had the car so long, I tend to notice even small things out of
the norm. The MG runs so darned well, except for that fast idle problem that
I did fix, if I hadn`t seen the glitter in the oil last week, I wouldn`t
have changed the filter this time and wouldn`t have inspected it if I did
change it.
I knew that fast idle business wasn`t doing the motor any good. The cam
on the rear carb had somehow gotten around and I couldn`t choke without
racing a cold engine. Even though I was cranking up the pressure before
start, the oil is pretty thick in winter. Sure that hurt.
A lot of the guys around here are just happy if they can get the cars on
the road for the weekend. If you are going for longevity, oil analysis makes
sense.
The suggestions I am getting are very helpful. When I got my first
Bugeye in 63, I knew nothing about keeping it up. Some 50 years later,
pretty much making it up as I went along, I know next to nothing. After
today, even more. Well, that`s progress...
Bert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shop at " Just Brits "" <shop@justbrits.com>
To: "Bert Shirey" <bertshirey@zoominternet.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Bearings Replacement
> Welcome back, Bert !!!!!
>
> << The particles in the filter are shiny, and they smooth to a shiny
> residue rubbed between my fingers, rather than sharp and hard
> like filings. >>
>
> OK, Step # 1 = Google or Yellow Pages and find a Lab that does
> Motor Analysis and give them a ring to fine out if they are STILL
> there AND still do Testing !! Most will SnailMail the "Kit" to you.
>
> Step # 2 = With Front End [or as I prefer, whole car] "in the air",
> start & get to Operating Temp. - MANDATORY for a "good &
> reliable Test". CLEAN around Drain Plug - SQUEAKY CLEAN !!!!
> Out with Drain Plug and USING some type of pliers [to hold the
> Test Container --- the "collection vial" DOES get VERY HOT !!! ]
> get the "sample" from draining oil. Return car to normal state.
> Step # 3 = Take/Mail Sample to Lab; [now this is IMPORTANT
> part <G>] CROSS YOUR FINGERS - prayer can help here & WAIT !
> Step # 4 = Still waiting <G>?? Open mail or read fax or read
> *.pdf or read eMail.
>
> The report will not only List the Chemical 'make-up of the oil
> but tell you EXACTLY what is what and WHERE it comes from
> including "very high level of copper which is coming from bearing
> shell(s)." and similar !! Or Amount of water exceeds......! And so on.
>
> I have been recommending and DOING Lab Motor Oil Analysis
> for my own cars and Customer Cars' for over 20 yrs. and it's
> simply amazing how accurate they are. Er, not really - after all
> it IS a Lab doing their job. LOL !! Seriously tho, Analysis is a
> GREAT P. M. "tool" and should be done by EVERY, I repeat, EVERY
> car Owner at each Oil/Filter Change [er, except racers - they
> change bearings or rebuild motors like the rest of us breathe <G>].
>
> Ed
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