BZ- 10 years ago I painted my shop floor with a 2-part epoxy paint that has
been nothing short of amazing. It has had every type of fluif spilled upon it
and I even had a small puddle of gas catch fire and it didn't even discolor.
However, if I recall correctly, it is not made for direct UV exposure. 10
years is a long time though, so perhaps they have a formulation that will fit
your application. It is imperative that you etch the concrete with muriatic
acid before you apply whatever finish you end up with, this I know to be true.
Then rinse and re-rinse. There are non-slip additives that you can either put
into the paint or sprinkle on top. I should have heeded that advice as my
floor is slicker than snot when wet. Go to a paint contractor supply store and
explain your need. They are not only less expensive (50 percent) than Home
Depot, but they know their product since no contractor wants return calls for a
finish that hasn't held. Also, if you go with epoxy, spend the 10 bucks or so
for a mixer that you can chuck up to an electric drill, full and complete
mixing is critical. Buy application tools that can be discarded, there is no
cleanup, tried it, even with the recommended solvent. Rollers and brushes are
cheap though, and the flow of the product will show no stroke marks. Let it
cure a week, scratch it with 80 grit or even 60 on a wall board sander (I got
about a thimble full of dust from a 30x50 floor) and second coat it with
application 90 degrees from the first coat.
Another option could be a ceramic tile that is 'pebbled' for that natural slate
look, it is relatively slip resistant.
Good luck, and let us know what you find out please, my back patio is gonna
need something someday soon.
Ed
Dallas, Tx
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