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Re: [Spridgets] More highway speed for a bugeye?

To: "ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net" <ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] More highway speed for a bugeye?
From: Ron Soave via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 May 2015 09:48:30 -0500
Cc: spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: spridgets@autox.team.net
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Ryan,=20
Don't sweat the axles unless the splines look twisted or chipped. The later a=
xles are BTA  806 casting, located on the end cap. There was a competition m=
odel...BTA 940(? I think). They are hen's teeth. You've seen my car, I went 1=
2 years without breaking one, even with a welded diff.=20

As far as the diff, they are fairly robust. It should spin freely. Any ratch=
et feeling or like there's sand in them (or cedar chips in them Frank used t=
o put in there to sell a car ;) ) and move on. The front pinion seals do lea=
k, it's cheap seal to get, relatively easy to change if you have an impact w=
rench (the nut torque is like 200 foot pounds; just tighten the shit out of i=
t and it's fine; my rule of thumb is 5 clicks after your harbor freight elec=
tric impact gun (fav tool, btw) runs out of steam!).  You can check backlash=
 if you want, specs are in the book, pretty straightforward to do, but if te=
eth look pristine you're probably ok.=20

Price should be $75 to $125. I just paid $150 for a pristine welded one from=
 Spridgetech.=20

Hope that helps -

Ron Soave

> On May 10, 2015, at 9:22 AM, ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets <spridgets@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> So if I go to carlisle import show next weekend what should I be on the lo=
okout for or what should I avoid?  looking for rear pumpkin or whole rear ax=
le? how can I tell if possible whats good and whats crap?
> Thanks=20
> Ryan
>=20
> From: "derf" <derf247@gmail.com>
> To: "Ryan Kubanoff" <ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net>
> Cc: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 8:39:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] More highway speed for a bugeye?
>=20
> You might also look into stronger axle shafts while you're doing rear end w=
ork.  Any Spridget diff chunk should fit in your rear housing.  Just drop th=
e drive shaft, pop the axles out, and swap the chunk.  Diff ratios are stamp=
ed on top of the chunk.  "10/39" is 3.9. IIRC "9/38" is what you would have o=
n your 4.22.
>=20
>> On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 5:59 AM, ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets <spridget=
s@autox.team.net> wrote:
>> So i have a 74 midget with a 1275, rib case, and a stock rear that will d=
o 70+ on a highway no problem.  Last year I bought a 60 bugeye that was modi=
ifed by the previous owner to have a 998 cc motor, rib case  and a stock bug=
eye rear.  It has more trouble with highway speeds.  Could I swap out the st=
ock bugeye rear for a late model midgets?  Would that improve performance?
>> Thanks
>> Ryan
>>=20
>> ------------------------
>>=20
>> spridgets@autox.team.net
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>=20
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47@gmail.com
>=20
>=20
> ------------------------
>=20
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>=20
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> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>=20
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o@yahoo.com

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Ryan,&nbsp;</div><div>Don't sweat the a=
xles unless the splines look twisted or chipped. The later axles are BTA &nb=
sp;806 casting, located on the end cap. There was a competition model...BTA 9=
40(? I think). They are hen's teeth. You've seen my car, I went 12 years wit=
hout breaking one, even with a welded diff.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>A=
s far as the diff, they are fairly robust. It should spin freely. Any ratche=
t feeling or like there's sand in them (or cedar chips in them Frank used to=
 put in there to sell a car ;) ) and move on. The front pinion seals do leak=
, it's cheap seal to get, relatively easy to change if you have an impact wr=
ench (the nut torque is like 200 foot pounds; just tighten the shit out of i=
t and it's fine; my rule of thumb is 5 clicks after your harbor freight elec=
tric impact gun (fav tool, btw) runs out of steam!). &nbsp;You can check bac=
klash if you want, specs are in the book, pretty straightforward to do, but i=
f teeth look pristine you're probably ok.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Pri=
ce should be $75 to $125. I just paid $150 for a pristine welded one from Sp=
ridgetech.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Hope that helps -<br><br>Ron Soave=
</div><div><br>On May 10, 2015, at 9:22 AM, ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridgets@autox.team.net</a>&=
gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div style=3D"font-fa=
mily: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>So if I go to carlisle im=
port show next weekend what should I be on the lookout for or what should I a=
void? &nbsp;looking for rear pumpkin or whole rear axle? how can I tell if p=
ossible whats good and whats crap?</div><div>Thanks&nbsp;</div><div>Ryan</di=
v><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:norma=
l;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-se=
rif;font-size:12pt;"><b>From: </b>"derf" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:derf247@gmail=
.com">derf247@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"Ryan Kubanoff" &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net";>ryan.kubanoff@comcast.net</a>&gt;<br><b>C=
c: </b>"spridgets" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridgets=
@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br><b>Sent: </b>Sunday, May 10, 2015 8:39:29 AM<br><=
b>Subject: </b>Re: [Spridgets] More highway speed for a bugeye?<br><div><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"ltr">You might also look into stronger axle shafts while y=
ou're doing rear end work.&nbsp; Any Spridget diff chunk should fit in your r=
ear housing.&nbsp; Just drop the drive shaft, pop the axles out, and swap th=
e chunk.&nbsp; Diff ratios are stamped on top of the chunk.&nbsp; "10/39" is=
 3.9. IIRC "9/38" is what you would have on your 4.22.<br></div><div class=3D=
"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 5:59 AM=
, ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:spr=
idgets@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>&gt;</s=
pan> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;=
border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=3D"font-family:=
Arial;font-size:12pt;color:#000000"><div>So i have a 74 midget with a 1275, r=
ib case, and a stock rear that will do 70+ on a highway no problem.&nbsp; La=
st year I bought a 60 bugeye that was modiifed by the previous owner to have=
 a 998 cc motor, rib case &nbsp;and a stock bugeye rear.&nbsp; It has more t=
rouble with highway speeds.&nbsp; Could I swap out the stock bugeye rear for=
 a late model midgets?&nbsp; Would that improve performance?</div><div>Thank=
s</div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><span color=3D"#888888" data-mce-style=3D"colo=
r: #888888;" style=3D"color: #888888;"><div>Ryan</div></span></span></div></=
div><br>------------------------<br>
<br>
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x.team.net</a><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div>
</div><div><br></div></div></div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div=
><span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"=
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o@yahoo.com</a></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=

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