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Don't know the answer to your kill switch question as I've never used one.
The green-knob switch on the negative battery terminal isn't intended to be u=
sed as a kill switch. But it works perfectly as a battery isolator. When y=
ou open the switch it does leave the entire positive system of the car conne=
cted, but NOT hot. With the negative side of the battery disconnected there=
is no voltage anywhere. Doesn't matter that all of the positive stuff is s=
till connected. =20
You might want to think about finding a new mechanic. :-)
Rick
Sent from my keyboard
> On May 14, 2016, at 10:09 AM, mdrowe via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.n=
et> wrote:
>=20
> I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches. My mechanic/tutor (w=
ho is never, ever, ever, wrong) insists that they should be on the ground wi=
re, which is how they are done on race cars. This may be OK if there is no a=
lternator, but will not kill a running engine with alternator. It just runs=
on, finding a ground for the alternator output somewhere else. More import=
ant, disconnecting the battery ground on a running engine can cause a voltag=
e spike that apparently can fry the alternator. A properly-wired kill switc=
h is on the positive terminal and has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground to p=
revent this. Pegasus Racing has detailed instructions. I may already have d=
amaged mine before I learned the proper way to wire it. Time will tell.
> =20
> This brings up another question: People put the green-knob battery switch=
on the negative terminal. This not only has the same run-on, fried alterna=
tor problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of the car hot. Sin=
ce there are grounds all over the car body, I think that means we can get a=
rching to the body pretty much anywhere. If the positive terminal is discon=
nected, there is no power anywhere, as nothing will come out of the ground s=
ide, regardless.
> =20
> What say you all?
> =20
> BTW, after two years of struggling to start the new engine put together by=
my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam was instal=
led 18 degrees advanced. It started right up when corrected to five degrees=
advance, as specified. Of course, after sitting for two years without runn=
ing, every gasket on the engine leaked. It has been a long two years.
> =20
> Michael Rowe
> The Holy Sprite
> =20
> ------------------------
>=20
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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@chartermi.net
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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Don't know the answer to your kill
switch question as I've never used one.</div><div><br></div><div>The green-knob
switch on the negative battery terminal isn't intended to be used as a kill
switch. But it works perfectly as a battery isolator. When you open
the switch it does leave the entire positive system of the car connected, but
NOT hot. With the negative side of the battery disconnected there is no
voltage anywhere. Doesn't matter that all of the positive stuff is still
connected. </div><div><br></div><div>You might want to think about
finding a new mechanic. :-)</div><div><br></div><div>Rick<br><br>Sent
from my keyboard</div><div><br>On May 14, 2016, at 10:09 AM, mdrowe via
Spridgets <<a
href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridgets@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
<style id="eMClientCss">
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<div>I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches. My
mechanic/tutor (who is never, ever, ever, wrong) insists that they should
be on the ground wire, which is how they are done on race cars. This may
be OK if there is no alternator, but will not kill a running engine with
alternator. It just runs on, finding a ground for the alternator output
somewhere else. More important, disconnecting the battery ground on
a running engine can cause a voltage spike that apparently can fry
the alternator. A properly-wired kill switch is on the positive terminal
and has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground to prevent this.
Pegasus Racing has detailed instructions. I may already have damaged mine
before I learned the proper way to wire it. Time will tell.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>This brings up another question: People put the green-knob battery
switch on the negative terminal. This not only has the same run-on, fried
alternator problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of the car
hot. Since there are grounds all over the car body, I think that
means we can get arching to the body pretty much anywhere. If the
positive terminal is disconnected, there is no power anywhere, as nothing will
come out of the ground side, regardless.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>What say you all?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>BTW, after two years of struggling to start the new engine put
together by my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam
was installed 18 degrees advanced. It started right up when corrected to
five degrees advance, as specified. Of course, after sitting for two
years without running, every gasket on the engine leaked. It has been a
long two years.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Michael Rowe</div>
<div>The Holy Sprite</div>
<div> </div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote
type="cite"><div><span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a
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