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Re[2]: Bench bleeding

To: richard.fedorchak@gsfc.nasa.gov, Roland Dudley <cobra@cdc.hp.com>
Subject: Re[2]: Bench bleeding
From: LeBrun@hii.hitachi.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 16:01:36 PST
        Rick & Roland; et. al.

-I haven't checked thoroughly, but does the TIGER Shop manual give the +/-
callouts on min./max. dimensions for inside master-cylinder and wheel-cylinder 
I.D. to provide proper braking after rebuilding?

-I own a couple different sets of brake hones, is this the way to go on a TIGER 
brake rebuild (clutch too) or is it simpler and easier to buy new master 
cylinders(both are "weeping" a little bit now)?

-Is this the way to go on wheel cylinders too...just buy new? Has anyone gone 
the rebuild route only to have to buy new shortly thereafter? Or is this the 
exception....& rebuilds are the way to go?

-The cost of parts is not a determining factor right now...but if I have to 
re-do everything again soon and buy new, my cost-savings on buying rebuild kits 
right now is just a "sunk-cost" later I'd rather not make.

-Who/what is "better" quality for the $...SUNBEAM SPECIALTIES; CLASSIC SUNBEAM,
etc.? No offense to anyone...I'm just trying to do my homework.Does anybody 
mix/match from either supplier? Please advise.

                            Phil LeBrun

     
I highly recommend bench bleeding of master and wheel/slave cylinders, 
but it's probably less critical for the clutch.  Since my clutch slave 
is mounted up-side-down, I know there's still air in it, and it still 
works surprisingly well.  But pre-bleeding can't hurt.
     
Whenever I buy a new master or slave cylinder I save the little plastic 
screw-in dust plugs that usually come with them for this very purpose. 
Between the cars I own and my son's I have quite a collection now.  Old 
bleeder valves work pretty well too.
     
Roland


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