Phil,
I rebuilt my brake system a couple of years ago, and used steel wool to
remove the accumulated garbage from the walls of the master and wheel
cylinders. It worked well for me and did not change the diameter of the
orifice. I have not had a bit of problems with them.
Les McClelland - Tulsa, OK
Lesm@prevuenet.com
Rick & Roland; et. al.
-I haven't checked thoroughly, but does the TIGER Shop manual give the
+/-
callouts on min./max. dimensions for inside master-cylinder and
wheel-cylinder
I.D. to provide proper braking after rebuilding?
-I own a couple different sets of brake hones, is this the way to go on a
TIGER
brake rebuild (clutch too) or is it simpler and easier to buy new master
cylinders(both are "weeping" a little bit now)?
-Is this the way to go on wheel cylinders too...just buy new? Has anyone
gone
the rebuild route only to have to buy new shortly thereafter? Or is this
the
exception....& rebuilds are the way to go?
-The cost of parts is not a determining factor right now...but if I have
to
re-do everything again soon and buy new, my cost-savings on buying
rebuild
kits
right now is just a "sunk-cost" later I'd rather not make.
-Who/what is "better" quality for the $...SUNBEAM SPECIALTIES; CLASSIC
SUNBEAM,
etc.? No offense to anyone...I'm just trying to do my homework.Does
anybody
mix/match from either supplier? Please advise.
Phil LeBrun
I highly recommend bench bleeding of master and wheel/slave cylinders,
but it's probably less critical for the clutch. Since my clutch slave
is mounted up-side-down, I know there's still air in it, and it still
works surprisingly well. But pre-bleeding can't hurt.
Whenever I buy a new master or slave cylinder I save the little plastic
screw-in dust plugs that usually come with them for this very purpose.
Between the cars I own and my son's I have quite a collection now. Old
bleeder valves work pretty well too.
Roland
|