At 04:30 am 2/24/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Folks,
> Typically, I am voyeuristic when it come to the Tiger and Alpine
>list, choosing to read and not speak. Every once in awhile I find something
>so intriguing I have to inquire. In your case you signed a response with
>"351C Tiger II and others." Does this mean you slipped a 351C into a Tiger
>II? How did you do it?
> The reason I ask is because a built a 351C about 5 years ago,
>putting about $3500 into parts and machining. It was originally for a Cobra
>kit project. Then the bottom really fell out of the defense industry, lay
>offs, money short, etc. ad naseum...... So the engine sits on the garage
>floor. Two years ago I bought a '67 Series V Alpine which is currently
>stripped down to parade rest and waiting for warmer weather to drag to the
>paint and body spa. Although my intention is to put the four-slug back in
>after the car returns, I quite often look at the Cleveland and the engine
>hole and wonder what kind of cutting and welding I'd have to do.
>Apparently, you've been down this road and I'd be both interested and
>appreciative to hear how you did it. Thanks.
>
>Mike Veesart
>
Mike,
A few more words on a 351C Tiger. The old firewall was replaced with
a 1/16 inch plate ( overkill but that is what I had handy). I used the old
cut out firewall as a templet for the various needed holes. The brackets
around the holes were transfered to the new firewall. Had to bend some
sheet metal up inside the dash/old firewall mounts to fit the peddles. A
cold chisel and a big hammer removed the firewall and frames.
Recommend an air chisel as my arm got very sore. The 351C flywheel
was too big to fit the aluminum 289 Tiger bell housing so I used a Bronco
steel housing that fits, but is veryheavy ( and safer). I used a Bronco
oil pan
and cut the bottom off for ground clearance. Added a home made oil shield
in the pan to keep the oil off the crank. Pan now holds 7 quarts including the
filter and cooler.( original 2 tube Tiger II oil cooler). Transmission was
not
moved at all. Direct bolt up to the Cleveland. Fabricated motor mounts out
of 1/4" plates. Use Original old style motor mounts. Recommend going to
a later style motor mount that is stronger. Fabricated headers out of a
modified
Torino 351C 4 barrel set. Use 1 5/8" tubes and the 4 pipes are parallel
to the ground with a flattened cone 7" long that goes to the collector.
Use 2 1/2" exhaust and tail pipes ( 2" EMT, last forever). Use Royal Scott
mufflers that sound good but could be more free flowing. They also last
forever. The pipes go under the rear axle and they are almors streight.
Just a slight dip in front of the mufflers. Also reworked the frame where the
pipes go through. Enlarged the holes and added 3" tubing to re-enforce the
hole.
My only clearance problem is the front left spark plug. The steering
column is sort of in the way. I can get it, but it remines me of the
original 289
plug access.
I also fabricated an alternator bracket from scratch to fit. Had to
relocate the X hydralic brake fitting a few inches from the original
location in the right front fender to clear the alternator.
I also added 1" square by 1/8" thick tubes from the firewall ( close to
the sides) to the cross member. Also a similar tube vertical, to go from
the cross member mounting bracket to the tube from the firewall.
Added 1/8" steel plates to trianglelate the tube/cross member and
added a 1/4" plate with attached threaded tubes ( from the old frame cross
member "bolt holes") to match the original cross member mounting holes.
The new frames are 2"x3" x 1/8". They are streight from the under car
frame work to the cross member. No big hump like the original
Tiger frames had. ( this hump was to clear the Alpine steering). At the cross
member I cut the bottom of the new frame, boxed it in and fitted it to the
shape of the cross member. The frames extend past the cross member to
the location of the radiator. at this point I switched to 1" square tubes to
mount the bumper. I do not lift the car with the original plug in stick
that was a poor screw jack. I use a small floor jack under the cross member
, frame , rear end or trailer hitch. Yes, I added a trailer hitch from scratch.
Pull a 16" Baha sky boat. The radiator end caps had new outlets added
in the opposite corners from the original 289 radiator. New core 4" wider
solved all my cooling problems. The original outlets on the radiator are capped
with some rubber caps that are normally used to seal pipes when plumers are
pressure testing their new systems. Lasted for 6 years now with no problems.
Probably should get new ones. The connection from the lower drivers side of
the radiator is very close to the steering column. I used two 1 3/4" copper
elbows, a short streight copper pipe and two short sections of radiator
hose to bypass the steering. The elbows are at about about at right angles
to each other. Silver solder was used to connect the copper. I found a
hose that
fits the top exactly after cutting off a few inches.
All steel parts of this conversion were welded and I find ther TIGER
very rigid. However; I now need new bushings in my A arms as they
are about worn worn out. Thirty years and 260k miles, they just don't
make things that last any more. The front springs are cut down Pinto
springs. Cheap and stiffer than the original Tiger. Had previously
modified the upper A arm mount for autocross; but it wore the tires
and was not good for wide tires. Now back to original settings. I use
Crysler Imperial Monrow shocks ( older model). Fit fine and work.
I have Konies available, but during the mods for autocross, I had moved the
upper A arm mount out about an inch and the good shocks will not
fit. Have a 1 1/8" sway bar up front. Orginally had it mounted in the normal
brackets with thin rubber; but the slots in the lower A arm kept breaking.
Now have two welded brackets on the front of the cross member that
mount large sway bar clamps with a good 1/2" rubber around the bar.
the very end of the sway bar still uses the original Tiger mounting
bracket. Use a piece of radiator hose as the bushings. The mounting
brackets are made from old disk brake pads steel backing. ( use what
you got!) Widened the original radiator fan shroud with sheet metal and
new 1"x1/8" mounting brackets. Have original wheels with bands inserted
6 1/2" wheels up front and 8 1/2" om the rear. 235-50-13 Goodyear TAs
on the rear. Front tire selection varies as they wear out much quicker.
Rolled the rear inner lip and pushed the finder well out with a jack and 2x4.
The Tiger II has nice SS wheel trim so any flaws are covered up.
Streached the front finders a bit also. Of course I long ago cut the
very front of the front wheel well to clear wide tires on a turn. A gloss
black Imiron paint job, redone seats and new carpets finished it off.
Paint is now getting old as I park outside in Florida and the Tiger is
soaking wet every morning. Can't get in the garage because I have an
Alpine with shortened 9" rear end, wheel tubs, Lyncon Continal disk
brakes front and rear as well as the Lyncon spindles. Modified the
A arms to mount big Ford Ball Joints. Raised the upper A arm mount
about 4 to 6 inches with necessary reenforcements. Under the hood it
is opened up enough for a 460 Ford. Alpine project is taking too long.
Still hung up on the wrong ackerman due to the location of the rack.
Have not yet solved the problem.
By the way I reconnend hardened valve seats for 1970 351C 4
barrel heads. The unleaded gas beats the seat out. I also use Harland
Sharp roller rockers and a big Crane cam with Crane High Intensity
high leak down lifters. Still have too much tork.
Mean while I also have a 76 Reynard Formula Ford (one of 8 made by
Reynard in England) I am restoring. Need more garage space!
By the way; if any of you Tiger people have detailed knowledge about
the mounting of suspension parts on the rear of a FF I can use the help.
Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others.
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