At 08:02 AM 8/28/97 +0100, you wrote:
>Up vs Down Fans,
>I think the pictures of the "factory recommended" pull it out should
>influence your choice. The engine/transmission unit are at a 45 degree
>up angle for clearance. The car is on level ground, over what used to be
>known as a "grease pit". These were holes in the ground before hydraulic
>lifts were invented (or affordable to British car factories). The "hook
>height" is really the deciding factor. In my gargage (no grease pit) I
>could not get the u-rent hoist past the garge door when down, much less
>have the ceiling clearance to lift the arm / hook / chain / engine /
>tranny@45degrees clear of the car resting on the floor. Never mind how I
>could disconnect everything, then lower the car to the floor before
>putting the lifter on. I did this job on my '66 Mustang, and Jay's
>Sunbeam Alpine (engines only), and had to do it in my driveway. Not much
>fun at 100F.
>So the instructions should read:
>1) Dig 6' deep x 4' wide x 8' long trench. Dont forget to prevent
>2) Add stairs or ladder.
>3) Add elevator to bring tool chest down into pit (or old dumb-waiter)
>4) Jack your garage up to the 14' ceiling clearance the Rootes factory,
>and professional garages have, for crane hook clearance.
>Then read the manual.
>Do it by dropping engine/tranny down on dolly and jack nose car up about
>3-4 ft. Roll out engine. Remember to face car in direction you can have
>room to lift AND length to roll the engine out (maybe backed-in to
>Steve - with no hands-on experience with this method. Just reading,
>thinking about my space availability, and a lot nightmare memories about
>pulling engines out in the driveway. Neighbors weren't to happy either.
>Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
>B9472289 < one first love, and >
> < one first win, is all >
Don't forget the cutting torch to remove the front cross member
away from the frames. Or do you still belive in the original factory
bolts to hold the 30+ year old Tiger together?
Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others