If you do not suffer from the curse of originality, there are water valves
avaluible from your local auto partrs store that will shut off the flow of
water, but might not look right. On my car I have connected a "Y" on each
side of the heater core so the valve only has to divert, not shut off the
water flow. this has greatly increased the ability to shut off heat from
the heater.
Happy Motoring
Doug Leithauser
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> From: rootes@ix.netcom.com
> To: Tigers@autox.team.net; Alpines@autox.team; net@ix.netcom.com
> Subject: Heater System
> Date: Monday, November 03, 1997 1:57 AM
>
> Hello Out There:
> Suggestions from you on the subject of heaters would be appreciated.
>
> I've got a Series V Alpine with the late type of heater valve. It
> started leaking and I replaced it with an old one I had. This valve
> doesn't leak at all BUT allows hot water through it and into the car,
> even with it shut "closed". The old valve that started leaking did NOT
> allow any water through and cool air came through the floor when it was
> shut off.
>
> I seem to recall years ago that I had this problem with other Alpines
> (and a Tiger), of hot air coming through the system even when "Off".
>
> I have looked at the "flip" piece above the trans tunnel that moves when
> you move the screen control lever. I re-glued one piece of felt that was
> loose on it but it seems that it needs another piece at the top of it to
> shut it in the opposite position. I hope I am making sense here.
>
> 1. Is there a way to get the heater valve to completely turn off, or do
> I have a defective valve and just need a new one?
> 2. Is a second piece of felt supposed to be installed, and if so, on the
> same side as the lower piece or the opposite?
>
> Finally, in messing about with the screen control lever on the dash, it
> jammed, and in my stupidity I broke the tip off of it (with the small
> black rubber "tab" at the end). I've got a replacement lever assembly I
> can use if I have to but, is there any way to reattach the piece I
> broke? I know it's relatively soft metal but I'm hoping I don't have to
> replace the whole assembly.
>
> Finally, a word of caution: I discovered that the hose that comes out
> the bottom of the heater box to the trans tunnel (heater box drain} was
> loose at the bottom (FUMES from that trans tunnel). Be careful in
> twisting this hose, if you do, as you may rip the "duckbill" rubber
> drain that attaches to it at the top as I did. No big deal, as they're
> available, but just one more aggravation!
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
>
> Steve Sage
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