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Dick Barker said:
"To all professors, rocket scientists, fluid dynamics engineers, etc. on
the
list,
Uh-oh. He we go.
Maybe you guys could discuss this radiator thing on another channel and
then
get back to us stupid Tiger owners later with a summary of your
conclusions.
Dick Barker"
Dick,
I am a little surprised at your content. Here you have some detailed
work being shared between knowledgeable people about specific Tiger
issues. These do not contain references to Alpers, certification,
traveloques, rivets, or other subjects that seem to irritate many.
These are directly related to the Tiger. I don't know of a "Tiger Heat
Problem Channel". This is the most appropriate place to find those who
are knowledgeable, and are the people with professional credentials
willing to apply them to the Marque. If the contents are boring, as
deeply scientific subjects, and people can be to non-technically
inclined, they don't have to read the stuff. But I would think you
would suffer the bandwidth to allow an interchange of ideas that are not
political.
As far as a "summary" is concerned, I have published some, in resposne
to specific requests, a few times already. In case you've missed them,
and think these interchanges do not produce anything concretly useful, I
have attached them from a copy Allan Connell so kindly quotes (because
he's done it and knows it works).
Since your car doesn't have a heating problem, you can just use the
"delete" key and no harm done.
Don't mean to sound harsh, as you have been a very good contributor of
your expertise often. I was just a bit surprised with your post, as it
is not typical of you, and bexause I am one of these rocket scientists
that you've asked to take his stuff somewhere else.
Maybe you were just kidding us, and forgot the smiley face? {9->
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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Message-ID: <35E425DD.6A0783CF@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:12:33 -0700
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
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Subject: [Fwd: Radiators, Modine]
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--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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Tue, 25 Aug 1998 23:16:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Allan Connell" <alcon@earthlink.net>
To: "Steve Laifman" <laifman@flash.net>,
"=?iso-8859-1?B?UmF5B01jQ3JhcnkH?=" <spook01@mindspring.com>
Subject: Radiators, Modine
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 23:20:24 -0700
Message-ID: <001201bdd0b9$9c8aa120$c2e8d9cf@allanc>
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The following attachment may have been what Steve originally intended me to
send.
Hope it helps.
Regards,
Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steve Laifman
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 1998 3:29 AM
To: Carmods@aol.com
Cc: dbinkley@argotech.com; tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Overheating
Carmods@aol.com wrote:
Maybe some of you have comments to add in the area of cooling, or would like
to elaborate on these basic areas, or would like to point out something I've
over looked or erred in.
John Logan
Not overlooked, but some details specifications may be of help.
FIRST NOTE: If your problem is a scaled up block, bad pump, too many mods
for more HP, bad hoses, leaks, or any other functional deficiency, all these
enhancements won't fix a broken system. Check these FIRST.
1) 6 Blade Ford fan (made in Canada) cut down about 3/8" off tips, uniformly
to keep balance and clear rack. Understand a Volvo fan (unsure model/year)
is a bolt in.
2) Complete shroud around fan in FRONT of rack.
3) After flushing engine of loose scale, add external brass Gano 1 3/4
filter (Mustang supplier). This one has ridges to hold hose on. Clean
filter elements (brass screen traps) frequently (1,000 to 2,000 miles) until
sure accumulation rate wont clog filter.
4) Verify pressure cap function with tester
5) Add overflow and recovery system between tank and radiator.
Interdynamics, Brooklyn NY 11232 Model MCR-3 "Narrow Container" 1 1/2 Qt.
Capacity fits right in, at a slight angle, and can be filled from under the
hood easily. Available cheap at most big parts stores. Recovery cap must
be used on expansion tank.
6) Extend horns by added 2 inch extension with 1/4" grommet for wires
through new air block-off plate. I have made copies of the Rootes option,
and they can be pop-riveted, screwed, or double-sticky tape mounted.
MIGHT CONSIDER LIMITED PRODUCTION, with powder-coat finish, of extension
(steel)
and block-off (aluminum) sets if there is
enough interest. LET ME KNOW.
7) Replace orignal, or older design 4 row, with new high density, high
performance radiator. Same thickness as original 3 row, and requires no
mods of tanks. Modine H 69 H Cross flow. 18 1/2 W x 15 1/2 high. Four
parallel rows of tubes, 36 tubes/row, each 3/8 inch deep by 0.080 wide
externally. 14 fins/per inch fin density. This is about $300, built
by radiator shop, and well worth it.
7A) Some like aluminum 2 row radiators. They work well, but are much
thicker than stock and need a lot of special shroud fitting, or fabrication.
Cost about $100 MORE. Cullen Bennet uses one in Arizona - with air
conditioning!
8) Use 180 F premium thermostat. Engine likes that temp, minimum. Drill
1/8 inch hole through plate.
9) For bumper-to-bumper traffic, use Scotts Manufacturing Co., Valencia CA
.
(800) 544-5596, ask for Gary Wilson. American made electric fan. Straight
blade, shrouded, Permanent Magnet motor "Terminator 13" size pusher. Use 40
amp relay, relay base (if desired), 20 amp weatherproof fuse holder. Cost
about $120 + any applicable tax and shipping. Well made and fits. Has
brass insert "feet" top and bottom. Installed with pop-rivets to top of
interior body in front of radiator, and on 10" aluminum angle bolted to
"crank" box. Make sure close enough to radiator to allow insulation foam to
seal. May need to "flatten" rear lip of "crank" box. I used CAT trunk
rubber gasket (DON'T use for trunk, there is no steel core) and pop-riveted
it to the outer rim of shroud, then filled in rest with foam insulation.
Seal is REQUIRED. Did not use thermostat, but manual switch. Wire control
switch through relay with fuse on high current (12 amp) fan side.
10) Am considering last design deficiency of Tiger, lower valance holes do
not guide air through radiator. A simple aluminum sheet, bent to fit
between jack horns and connect lower lip of valance or valance holes to
lower edge of radiator is easy enough with 0 temper aluminum sheet that can
be bent by fingers. Use foam tape for edge seal, so that metal doesn't rub
11) LAT hood lets hot air out.
12) Edelbrock makes an excellent aluminum Hi-Po water pump, but expensive.
Hub may neeed slight adjusting. Sunbeam Specialties sells new aftermarket
aluminum that has correct hub (I think).
IF ALL THIS DOESN'T WORK, PUT THE ALPINE ENGINE BACK IN, OR SEE RAMON
(Where there is no such thing as hot running Tigers, if nothing is broke)
{9->
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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