I have pulled my engine a couple of times several years ago by myself with
no problems. I takes about 4 hours to pull it out (start to finish). There
are a few things that I did slightly differently (from previous great
descriptions). One was to throw an 8ft 4x4 across the rafters in the attic
over the garage. I then cut a small hole in the ceiling drywall over the
work area. Be sure to get the hole far enough into the garage so that you
can pull the garage door down with the car body hanging there. Wrap a 2ft
length of large chain (with big holes in the links) around the 4x4 and drop
both ends through the hole. Pull one end down longer and then put a grade-8
bolt with washers/nut through it and lock it together. I did this so I can
see the connection and know that it hasn't changed since the last time I
used it. (basically I believe in Murphy). The large links allow for the hook
on a come-a-long to be hooked into place anywhere along the chain (coarse
adjustment). Then after rolling the car into position (with the bonnet off)
under the chain, I used two of the long bolts that secure the front cross
member and a 4ft piece of chain (connecting at the ends) to attach a "sling"
across the engine compartment and attach to the cross member bolt holes from
the top side. Connect the come-a-long to the mid point of the sling and the
chain end dangling from the ceiling and start cranking. This allows for the
car body to then be lifted off the cross member which is rolled out from
under on its own wheels. Take the opportunity while there is plenty of
unobstructed room underneath to drain the transmission grease (otherwise you
will have a major mess to clean up when you pull the yoke out of the
tailstock. Believe me, I've done it). Disconnect the exhaust and loosen all
the bolts on the rear cross member, drop the drive shaft and etc. etc.(all
the other stuff that needs to be disconnected). I trust a chain and
come-a-long more than jack stands that always seem to get into the way of
what I am trying to accomplish.
If you weld up the engine dolly shown on Mark's website (about $20 in
material + casters), roll it under the engine and gently lower the
engine/body onto the engine stand until it supports most of the weight.
Remove the engine mount bolts (6) and tail stock bolts. Give the come-a
-long a few cranks (heading up) and start wiggling the engine stand while
proceeding to crank the body back up. The body will start to rise, about
half way up, the tailstock will start to bind in the tunnel, pull the engine
stand forward a little and keep cranking. Continue this process (up and
forward) until the body is sitting at about 30 degrees relative to the floor
and the engine and tranny are sitting there ready to roll away. At this
point you can either lower the body back onto the front cross member,
re-attach with the two remaining bolts and roll outside to clear the area,
or as I did, leave it hanging and pull the garage door down and go into the
house for a cold beer. With the body sitting on its rear wheels and hanging
from the chain other work on the bottom side is easily accessible at this
time.
Incidentally, the chain through the ceiling has been used on numerous other
occasions to lift heavy stuff ( lathe, milling machine, engine block, etc. )
out of the back of my pickup truck with no fuss at all.
Cullen Bennett
Tempe, Arizona USA
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