DJoh797014@aol.com wrote:
> Time to wake the net up. Please comment on the following.
OK., since you ask.
> Dave Johnson, B382002668, Aurora, IL
>
> RADIOACTIVE PINK PELLETS OR RED LINE COOLING SYSTEM PELLETS
>
>
> Years ago I submitted a bottle of the infamous pink pellets to my
> company's
> labs for analysis. Here's what the lab found:
>
> The pink pellets are basically molydate, borate, phosphate, silicate,
> and nitrate. They act as a simple corrosion inhibitor. The chemists
> offered the following information.
Hey, that's not such a bad result.
> Water is the best heat transfer agent available for an engine. But
> pure water contains nothing to prevent corrosion, protect the
> dissimilar metals, lubricate the water pump, stop from freezing. etc.
> By adding a radiator cap, the boiling point of water is raised about
> 3 degrees per pound. A 15 pound cap adds about 45 degrees to the
> boiling point of water meaning about a 257 degree boiling point.
"Pure water" still has the best heat transfer rate, and the least deposits of
dissolved minerals, so I always use DISTILLED water (not "mineral" or
"de-ionized") Mercedes insists on it.
> A 50/50 water antifreeze does not have the heat transfer rate of
> water alone. It's the ethlyene glychol in the antifreeze that causes
> the heat transfer to fall. But it is also the ethylene gychol that
> causes the water to not freeze. Antifreeze also contains additives to
> lubricate the water pump, protect against corrosion, etc.
Good conclusion.
> This product is an attempt to prevent corrosion and lubricate the
> water pump. To get the best heat transfer rate from this product you
> must drain your coolant and refill with water(not distilled) and this
> product.
> But when freezing weather approaches you have to drain your system
> and refill with antifreeze and water. This product will not raise the
> boiling
> point of the coolant. That's the function of the radiator cap.
Actually, the freezing point is lowered, and the boiling point is increased
with the ethylene glycol (one goes with the other), but it's not by a lot, in
either direction. Still, better than a sharp stick in the eye, or blowing
effluent on your neighbors drive. The real issue here is whether the
increased heat transfer rate of pure distilled water would have kept the
system from reaching boiling temperatures. The major problem is not really
the running temperatures, in this example, but the soak back heat when the
engine has been turned off hot, that pops the cap and distributes the
effluent out the cap hose.
> Race cars can benefit from this product as it will cool better than
> water/antifreeze. But don't race in sub zero temperatures.
Right! That's a good rationale for using just water in a RACE CAR.
> Adding this product to a solution of water/antifreeze does nothing
> but waste your money. In fact there may be a problem with adding
> this product to a water/antifreeze solution. I address that in another
> tip if anyone cares.
You are probably correct in what you have in mind. However, anti-freeze
should be drained and refilled annually. This is NOT because the ethylene
glycol has gone ineffective, but because the water pump lubricant has. Plus,
it gets rid of the floating scale that is in the system with a power flush.
Another solution is to verify the specific gravity of the mixture is still OK
( Prestone, or other, bulb/float ball device), then if it is, just add some
water pump lubricant additive. This does NOT relieve one of the
responsibility of assuring the Gano Filter is cleaned, so those old blocks
aren't throwing engine scale into the radiator, and the lower radiator hose
isn't collapsing because the walls are weak from age, and you have had the
foresight to add a magnesium sacrificial anode to the radiator to prevent
your aluminum manifold form disappearing from the inside, out. Or one of
those cheap chromed zinc intake/thermostat outlets that corrode first.
Sorry that this took so long, but there is a lot of information out there,
and most of it has some credibility, but it doesn't tell the whole story as
it applies to old Tigers with multi-element components. (like a 4 bbl
manifold).
Thanks, Dave, for all the good information. It was all correct, as far as it
went.
Summary: I know NOTHING about no stinkin' radioactive pellets, and tend to
disbelieve anything said about them.
Hope this helps. more than confuses.
Bottom line: Use good quality antifreeze, even in Southern California, where
it doesn't freeze, add water pump lubricant every year, Check specific
gravity, use brass Gano filter, or insert their screens, in the radiator top
hose inlet, clean it at least twice a year, after you've had the block power
flushed, and as needed based on experience. Power flush block every two to
three years. Don't buy the cheapest antifreeze, or lubricant. Add grounded
magnesium rods in the radiator/surge tank if you have an aluminum manifold or
thermostat housing. If your car is staining your driveway, you have a problem
that needs fixing.
Steve, the "verse" of bad experience.
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
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